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Africa East Africa

Lamai Serengeti: The Safari Story

I remember returning home from my second safari and immediately longing to be in the African bush again. That second safari was supposed to be it; it was supposed to fulfill whatever desires I had following the first safari. It didn’t. It left me feeling the exact same way I felt following the first. In fact, I missed it more. These feelings prompted me to research what it was about Africa and those “African footprints on the heart” that pulled me and so many others back. There are a lot of explanations, but what resonates with me the most is that it is the feeling of coming home. Where else but home can you feel so happy, at peace, whole. There is also something special about completely disconnecting in a remote and wild place. And, waking up bright and early each morning with no idea of how your day will unfold.

As mentioned in the previous Lamai Serengeti post, this was my fourth safari and my second trip to the northern Serengeti. As much as I love the bush, I am particularly drawn to this area. I love the landscape, the topography, the bright blue skies, with fluffy white clouds, and how quickly and dramatically that sky can change when an afternoon storm rolls in.

Serengeti

I love the ancient kopjes that dot the landscape, the people and the lack of crowds. My only hope with this photo essay is that the following words and photos portray how truly special this piece of the world is.

Day 1: Laz the Wish Granter

When Lazaro picked us up from the airstrip, he gave us an introduction to Lamai, the Serengeti and how game drives work. Then, he looked at us very seriously and asked, “What do you want to see while you are here?” We tried to explain to him that we are not “big five” people (people who need to see the entire big five within a two day period) and that we really just love the safari experience and taking time to sit with the animals. Lazaro was not remotely satisfied by that answer:

Laz: Okay. But what do you really want to see?

Me: Elephants (always).

Ten minutes later:

Serengeti Elephants

So, there we sat with a big herd of beautiful eles, watching them gracefully move, pull the grass and bushes from the ground with their powerful trunks and listening to their low rumble. And, almost immediately, we were entertained by a young bull letting us know that we were in HIS space by showing us his persuasive mock charge.

African Elephant Mock charge

As we left them, we saw this beauty having a snack.

Giraffe Serengeti

We drove along the Mara River on our way to the lodge and got a peek at the top of the head and tiny ears of this hippo. Don’t be fooled by their cuteness, they are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa.

Peeping Hippo

We worked our way back to the lodge, where we would meet the rest of the Lamai crew and get ready for the full days of safari to follow. Sunsets in the bush are an event in and of themselves and we enjoyed a beautiful one right from the expansive deck of our room. Have you read our review of Lamai Serengeti, yet?

Lamai-Deck-Sunset

Day 2: Cats, Cats and More Cats

Our wakeup call came right before sunrise and we witnessed the beauty of the sun rising over the Serengeti from our room, coffee in hand, before taking off on our drive.

Lamai Serengeti Sunrise

The morning light and the way it casts a warm glow on the animals and the landscape in the Serengeti  will take your breath away.

Zebras Serengeti

Serengeti Light

The first thing we did this morning was check out the kopje that had become home base for a mama leopard and her two very young cubs, AKA the “Leopard House”. There was some concern that only one of the two had been seen over the past couple of days. When we pulled up to the kopje, we saw mom sleeping, but no cubs. We sat with her for a moment and then moved on.Serengeti Leopard

We saw a few lingering wildebeest, but the majority had followed the migration towards the rains. They are such strange looking animals.

As the morning hours passed, Laz (thankfully) reminded us that we should have breakfast. We pulled on to the cliffs overlooking the Mara River to a spot with a perfect view of a pod of hippos. Laz got out of the vehicle to inspect the surrounding area to make sure we were alone and safe. He returned a minute later with a big grin on his face. I thought that meant we were good to go, but Laz got into the vehicle, pulled it forward a few feet and said “look”.

This guy was already having breakfast in our spot.

We moved farther down the Mara, where Laz set up an entire breakfast spread. Oh how I love a bush breakfast, and this one was a game changer with delicious breakfast sandwiches, homemade granola and fresh, local coffee.

We hopped into the vehicle with full bellies and a solid caffeine buzz, and drove just a bit before we saw our first big cats: lions. River beds are a great place to find these beauties.

I love the sleek and confident walk of the big cats. There is such power, grace and purpose within each step.

And when you lock eyes with them, It is like they are staring into your soul. They do this right when they spot you and then carry on as if you were not even there.

lioness Serengeti

Further down the riverbed, we saw two lions mating, which is a rare treat. And we saw it TWICE. It looks like such an aggressive ritual, but it is over within seconds. They will spend a week mating.

Mating lions in the Serengeti

And then we had our first cub sighting.

Serengeti Lion Cub

We went back to the Lamai lodge for some lunch and some R&R before our evening game drive.

On our way out for our evening drive, we came across one of the five old buffalos that hang out near the lodge. I once heard someone say that buffalo always look at you like you owe them money…

We lucked out on this drive and had Penda, who is in training, with us. Shortly after we started our drive, we came upon this herd of eles with two tiny babies.

Baby Elephants

They were the smallest baby elephants I have seen.

Baby Elephant

And still trying to figure out those body parts.

And just in case that sighting wasn’t fantastic enough, we received word that there was a leopard in a tree with a kill. This wasn’t the mama leopard we saw earlier, this one was a male. If we looked closely enough, on one of the other branches, we could see the warthog that became that leopard’s meal. The satiated leopard was comfortable and relaxed, and seemingly unaware of the looky-loos below him. Most likely exhausted from the hunt and then dragging his kill up into the tree.

While watching him sleep, we could see that we were in for one of those epic Serengeti sunsets, so we decided to seek out the perfect sundowner spot.

We found a spot that was a bit elevated and Penda and Laz set up a little bar on one of the rocks and made a G&T for Eddie and poured a chilled white wine for me. And then we enjoyed the most spectacular sunset I have ever witnessed in the most perfect spot. There is nothing like a sundowner in the bush. Nothing.

I could have spent at least another hour there, just watching the sunset unfold, but park rules require that all vehicles be back at camp by 7pm. Laz pushed it as long as he could, and then we raced back.

I climbed into our magnificent bed that night wondering how on earth any drive could be better than today’s.

We agreed with Laz that we would get an earlier start the next morning, so that we could travel a little farther out to where the Serengeti meets Kenya’s Masai Mara.

Day 3: The Best. Day. Ever.

We hopped in the vehicle, right as the sun was rising, and we were ready to hit the road. But, here’s the problem: it was a spectacular sunrise (again), so I had to stop for a few quick shots.

Okay, that was taken care of and we were on our way; zooming down the road for a longish drive to the edge of the park. We were ready. BUT, as soon as we made it down Lamai’s prized kopje, Laz slowed the car and said “look there.” As usual, I spotted nothing. We drove closer and he asked if I could see now. I saw rocks and mounds. We pulled closer. And there they were, right in the open savanna: Two magnificent male lions, and a lioness, with a pile of cubs in the center of them.

lions Serengeti National Park

The cubs were curled into one another such that you could hardly tell there were three of them.

They looked cold and the mud on their little legs makes me think they spent the night in a protected river bed.

Laz said he knew them and that one wasn’t as healthy as the other two. As we watched them warm themselves in the sunlight, the lioness began to roar; to call.  

We sat and watched and listened for a while. It was quite a way to start the morning.

Zebra are plentiful in the Serengeti and the majority of the time, they just stare at you for a second before running off. As we drove we stopped to check out a very young foal. This baby obviously hadn’t learned the skittish zebra ways and walked right up to the car. Something I have never seen before. You can see a very stressed mama in the background.

We crossed the Mara to the other side and drove along a river bed where we came across a large pride of lion. There were a few females with a lot of cubs that varied in age.

They were all around us, so we turned off the vehicle and just sat with them. Cubs are so much fun to watch. They are rambunctious and  mischievous.

As cute as their wrestling and sneak attacks on each other are, they are practicing survival skills.

There is one element that can make or break your time in the bush: your guide. Your guide should be knowledgeable, considerate, energetic, and motivated, and do more than just drive you to the animals. They should understand animal behaviors, how to respect them while in their territory and how to make sure you’re positioned to get that shot for which you traveled thousands of miles. In the hierarchy of staff positions at a  lodge, being a guide is one of the most valued. They go through an intensive initial training and maintain their knowledge through continued training and learning.

One of the ways that guides locate predators is by watching the behavior of the possible prey in the area. Which way are they looking? Are they communicating with each other? Are they comfortable or anxious?

We began to make our way back to the lodge and as we got closer to the river crossing, Laz stopped the car and told us to get our cameras ready. This particular corner was a popular (out of water) sunbathing spot for hippos, but they would quickly move into the water once we came around. He was right.

We pulled a little closer and watched them waddle, tumble, roll, and step on each other until they found a position in the water they liked.

Hippos in Serengeti

On our way back to the lodge, we stopped by the Leopard House to check on the leopard cubs who had been in hiding. We looked around the kopje and drove up and down the river bed with no luck of a sighting. A manager from a nearby camp was doing the same thing. He reported that there was a sighting yesterday, but only of one of the cubs. That’s how this area works. Although there is minimal intervention, those who occupy the land, know and are concerned for their wild neighbors.

As we continued our drive back to the lodge, we spotted mama leopard.

We weren’t with her long before she got up and began hunting.

Lazaro asked if we were able to wait a bit for lunch, so we could see how her hunt played out. There is no way we could say no to that! So we watched her. We watched her scan her environment. And we watched her get up and move down the kopje. We watched how her beautiful coat shimmered in the sunlight. And we watched the sleekness in her movements. 

And we followed her. She moved through the grass and from kopje to kopje and to any shady reprieve she could get from the hot sun.

She seemed to blend into each new environment into which she stepped foot, almost as if she were shapeshifting.

We followed her fruitless stalking for a while, knowing that she really needed to eat and hoping that she did. Every time I leave for the bush, I hope I won’t witness a kill. Every time I am in the bush, and I see a hungry animal hunt unsuccessfully for days, that all changes.

This evening was our final evening drive. We drove back to the Leopard House kopje to do our routine check on the cubs. Laz turned to us and said “let’s agree that you will not leave here until you see the leopard cubs.” Of course we agreed. I didn’t want to leave at all. I felt like suggesting to Laz we don’t leave until we see a polar bear, but with his skills, he’d probably come up with one!

Not 10 minutes later: “There!” Laz said looking up at the giant kopje.

Us: Where???

Laz: (handing us the binoculars and pointing at the massive kopje) “There!”

We still couldn’t see. Laz pulled closer and there they were. These two tiny bodies that blended perfectly with the rock. As we pulled around to the other side to get a better look, these two tiny heads peered over the edge at us.

They continued playing while keeping a watchful eye out for  mom.

 Serengeti wrestling leopard cubs

 

We sat below them until they ventured into the brush.

As the sun dropped lower, we decided to find a spot for sundowners. On our search, we found those two majestic male lions from our morning drive. The golden light hitting their red mane was so stunning, we had to stop and admire them.

Lion in Serengeti

Behind them, a storm was hitting the mountains of the Masai Mara and then a rainbow dropped behind the males. Sometimes, I swear there is a big production crew in the background: “Cue the lions! Cue the golden light! Cue the rainbow!”

As we focused our attention on them, the lioness came from behind us, greeted them and then turned to make sure the cubs were behind her. Two of them were and they picked up their pace and ran straight to the males, one of which gave a strong “no play” warning.

Laz made the excellent suggestion that we have our sundowners in the car while watching them. It was one my top safari experiences. In fact, the entire day was the best safari day I have ever had.

Day 4: Ugly Cry

The next morning, we had breakfast in the lodge. It was our last morning. We loaded our bags in the vehicle where we found picnic lunches, prepared by Lamai’s chef, for our long journey out of the bush and to the airstrip. We had a couple of hours for a game drive before heading to the airstrip. Initially, we didn’t see much, but it was still nice to do a farewell drive through the bush.

As we got closer to the airstrip, we found the male leopard from a couple of days before. Again, how Laz spotted him, is beyond me.

We watched him move and pause through the grass and became completely enthralled when Laz got the call over the radio and then turned to tell us: “your plane is here”. And my heart sank. I knew it was coming, but that didn’t make it any better. We made it to the airstrip and Helen and Clyde, the camp managers, were there waiting for their plane. We got to say bye to them one more time before boarding our plane.

Coastal Air

Our plane moved to the end of the strip and as it did, I caught a glimpse of Laz waving goodbye and I lost it. Full on ugly cry.

Kogatende Airstrip

As it broke my heart to leave, one thing I have accepted is that this is a place to which I will always return. It’s too special not to.

Thank you to Lazaro and Lamai Serengeti for an unforgettably perfect three days in the Northern Serengeti.

Until next time…

Breathe one last time

Your wild breath into me

That I may not forget you,

That I may remember who I am…

– Barbara Fairhead

  • Nomad Tanzania’s website is a great source of information on how you can pair Lamai with some of their other camps and ideal times to visit each one
  • Are you ready to book this once in a lifetime adventure? Contact the experts and Extraordinary Journeys and allow them to arrange all of the details and answer all of your questions
  • We were very lucky to have Laz and our vehicle to ourselves. It’s also fun to share a vehicle, but you can arrange for private drives
  • You can read more about what to expect on safari here
  • You can read more about planning a safari here
Categories
Africa East Africa

Lamai Serengeti: The Lodge

As we moved through the process of dropping people off and picking others up, I recognized each and every airstrip from our previous trip to the Serengeti. And, as we got closer to our final stop, the Kogatende airstrip, my heart started to flutter. Approaching the dirt strip, I looked at the names on the sides of the waiting game drive vehicles and there it was: Nomad Tanzania. We landed and our guide, Lazaro, was there waiting for us with a cooler full of drinks. He explained to us how drives work, gave us our reusable water bottle to be used throughout our stay and then take home with us, and off we went!

Lamai Serengeti bush plane and vehicle

My original intention was to write one post about Lamai and our safari with them, but I quickly realized that Lamai the lodge and Lamai’s safari experience are each standouts in their own right and each deserve their own spotlight. So, this is the first of a two-part article.

Nomad Tanzania

To know Lamai, you need to know a bit about Nomad. Lamai is one of ten camps owned and operated by Nomad Tanzania. Nomad has been operating in the remote areas of Tanzania for twenty years. So, not only are they considered pioneers of those areas, they are well respected for their knowledge and service. Many of Nomad’s employees have been with them for over fifteen years. As a former Human Resources professional, I know that the treatment of your employees trickles down to how your employees treat your guests. So, when our guide Lazaro told us he had been with Nomad for twenty years, I knew this group had to be doing something right.

Lamai’s Prized Position

It is a privilege to build a permanent camp in the Serengeti. Nomad was offered a plot of land (that would have been much easier to build on) not too far from where Lamai is located, but they really pushed for the Kogakuria Kopje. Simply put, a kopje is a “hill”, but in the Serengeti these are comprised of granite outcrops that are the result of volcanic activity. To want to build a lodge on this kopje was ambitious to say the least. But doing so granted Lamai a unique position perched above the rolling plains of the northern Serengeti. 

Lamai's Perch

Dubbing themselves the “keepers of the Kogakuria Kopje,” they take this prized position seriously. Keep that rocky kopje in mind as you look through the photos in this post.

Lamai Serengeti

Lamai Walkway

Pure Serengeti

From afar, you hardly notice the small camp scattered throughout the kopje. It intentionally blends with the landscape.

Lamai OutsideImage courtesy of Nomad Tanzania

Serengeti is a Maasai word meaning endless plains and the design of this camp is meant for you to take in the vast, stunning landscape from wherever you are on the property. Whether it be the main lounge area, the pool area, the dining area or your room, you have unobstructed, panoramic views of the plains.

Lamai-Pool-Deck

There is a purity to Lamai that creates an environment that allows you to comfortably exist in the beautifully raw surroundings. A place to truly experience the sounds, air, light, darkness and the smell, oh my goodness that beautiful scent, of the Serengeti.

Lamai-Main Lounge

The Lodge

There are three different areas of Lamai: the main lodge has eight rooms with a couple of them set up for families , the private lodge has four rooms and is intended for larger groups, and Mkombe’s House, which is intended for families or small groups.

Lamai describes the aesthetic of the lodge as “bush chic”. I don’t think you could come up with a more spot on description! Once you are in the rooms, there is also a touch of French bohemian. There is an overall simplicity to it, so as not to distract from the star (Serengeti), with cozy textures, pops of color and even a little shimmer. There are plenty of inviting “nooks” to lounge in scattered throughout the lodge.

Lamai-Entry

Lamai-Fireplace

The nights are cool, but the days are hot. The pool (also with a view!) is a perfect place to cool off. 

Lamai-Pool-Entry

Lamai-Pool

Rooms

Our room was in the main lodge. The rooms are more like villas: each a stand-alone building and very private. They are unassuming from the outside and totally bush chic, French bohemian on the inside.

Lamai-Room-Outside

The interiors are primarily white with gentle pops of color.

Lamai-Room-Bed-Front

The best part is that the side that faces the plains is completely open (with a screen to keep the bugs out). The openness allows for the rooms to be filled with tons of beautiful, natural light, and those sounds and that scent.

Lamai-Room-View

Facing outward are a writing desk and a daybed. On the outside, there is a large deck with two big chairs.

Lamai Details

Lamai-Deck-Sunset

The large, open room is centered by a huge, plush white bed. The bed is swathed in romantic netting that is pulled down in the evenings.

Lamai-Bed

As pretty as it is, it also serves to keep mosquitos out, though we did not have any mosquitos in our room.  On chilly nights, you’ll find a warm water bottle under the covers that keeps the bed warm until you climb in.

Lamai Turndown

There is absolutely nothing like climbing into that bed at night, warming up from the slight chill in the air, breathing in that fresh air and listening to the sound of the animals in the distance. To me, it is the epitome of “bliss”.

The bathroom is spacious and has ample storage for your belongings. The screen exterior wall continues into the bathroom, so that you have that spectacular view no matter where you are. There is a walk-in shower and access to a second deck with seating. The bathroom amenities include lovely handmade soaps and lotions.  

Lamai- Bathroom

Safaris come with early morning wake up calls and Lamai does those calls right. Someone gives a gentle knock and a “good morning” and then slides a tray of coffee (or tea) and biscuits through an opening in the wall created for just that purpose.

Lamai-Coffee

And the best part about that room: it’s the best seat in the house to see the sun rise over the Serengeti.

Lamai Serengeti Sunrise

Dining

Lamai’s food is fantastic! And, it’s all organic. Not because they want to be trendy, but because the bush was doing organic far before the hipsters came along. Organic is the only option.

You have a couple of choices for breakfast. You can enjoy it at the lodge, which means either you leave for your morning game drive a bit later or you return from your morning game drive early.

Lamai Dining

Or, you could have a bush breakfast. Either way, you will have delicious food, but having breakfast in the bush is an experience you won’t have anywhere else. At Lamai, your guide will pull over somewhere spectacular (think Mara river overlooking hippos) and set up a table, chairs and a full breakfast spread complete with juice, coffee and/or tea. My favorites were the breakfast sandwiches and homemade granola. Coffee is one of Tanzania’s biggest exports, so if you are a coffee drinker, you are in for a treat.

Lamai-Bush Breakfast

Unless you decide to stay out in the bush all day (a lunch would be packed for you), you return to the lodge for lunch, which is set up buffet style, super fresh and served with chilled wine and local Tanzanian beer or any other beverage you could want.

Lamai-Lunch

After lunch and before the evening game drive, you have a few hours to swim, relax, nap, read a book, shop in the boutique; whatever you want.

Afternoon tea is served just before your evening game drive, which is also when your guide will come chat with you about a plan for the drive coming up and for your morning drive.

Dinner is served on one of the main decks. You can select to have a private dinner or enjoy it in a communal setting. Not only are you joined by Helen and Clyde, the camp managers, you are joined by the other guests at the lodge. I always find this an enjoyable experience as you get to chat with people from all over the world and you know you have at least one thing to talk about: “What did you see today?” As with all of the other meals, dinner was delicious. Several courses were served and it always ended with a tasty desert.

African Hospitality

As I mentioned in the OneFortyEight Nairobi post, there’s something unequivocally special about African hospitality. When you experience it, it’s more than good service, it’s a feeling of being taken care of.

Helen and Clyde are so pleasant and seem to be around when you need them, but are never too invasive. They are great camp managers and it was obvious the staff thought so! Clyde always saw us off in the morning and Helen was always there to greet us when we came in from each drive. When we arrived on our first day, Helen gave us a tour of the property and our room, explained how everything worked, and gave us some history on the lodge. I can be sarcastic at and particularly enjoyed how Helen would banter with me a bit. 

The beautiful thing about the lodge is that it is in the middle of the Serengeti; you are in the wild. Any time it is dark (or close to dark) outside, you are escorted by an Askari, who acts as your security. The Askari are from local villages and know the area (and the animals) better than anyone else. They walk you to your room when you come in from your evening game drive, walk you to dinner from your room and walk you back to your room after dinner. We were always escorted by Mr. P, who was so sweet and charming.  I read somewhere that he has a scar from a lion scratch on his face. I have no idea if this is true and may be adding to the legend being created. What I do know is he is delightful and we felt very safe in his care.

Lamai-Mr P

The restaurant staff and every person we came across was welcoming and friendly and genuinely wanted to know about us.

And then there is Lazaro, who was one of the best guides we have ever had. Your safari guide can make or break your entire safari experience and our time with Lazaro was flawless. This plus our amazing experience while at the lodge is why I am turning this into two posts. Stay tuned for post two!  

This was not our first visit to the northern Serengeti and it won’t be the last; it is a special place. As much as we enjoyed our first visit to this area, Lamai takes it to the next level, with spectacular views, beautiful accommodations, great food and unparalleled African hospitality. 

Check out Lamai’s website for more information!

Getting there

Because we were coming from Pemba, a remote island off the coast of Tanzania, we had a long day of airstrip hopping on bush planes. Depending on where you are coming from, there are more direct options. Fortunately, Extraordinary Journeys took care of organizing our lodging and our flights in and out of the bush. 

Details2Lamai Details

Good to Know

  • A three to four night stay is recommended to fully enjoy Lamai
  • There is a great little boutique on property and all proceeds go to local organizations. Save your souvenir shopping for here
  • If you’re celebrating something special, let them know ahead of time and they can arrange a private dinner for you
  • You don’t have to go on every game drive. You could do a bush walk, hike to the top of the Kopje to catch the sunrise/sunset, take a hot air balloon ride or just rest
  • Nomad’s website is a fantastic resource to start planning your itinerary. Combine Lamai with other Nomad camps to complete your adventure!
  • Use a safari outfitter like Extraordinary Journeys to create a seamless trip
  • Read more about planning for a safari here
  • Read more about what it’s like to be on safari here

 

 

 

 

Categories
Africa East Africa Hotels

Introducing OneFortyEight Nairobi

I was excited to visit Nairobi, but to be honest, I was underwhelmed by the lodging choices laid out in front of me, including the “just in case” room I had booked. We were just a few weeks out from our departure when Jamie, from Extraordinary Journeys, forwarded me some photos and information on a boutique hotel that was set to open just two weeks before we arrived. The subject line of that email read “Introducing OneFortyEight Nairobi“.

Within minutes of opening the information, I knew that this was our spot. A beautiful boutique hotel in a quiet leafy suburb of Nairobi, drenched in art and quirky accents, and minutes from the places we wanted to visit.

Getting There

We had spent a couple of days in London before heading to Kenya. Our British Airways flight left London at 8:00 a.m. and we arrived in Nairobi a little after 9:00 p.m. that same day, which happened to be New Years Eve.

As with the majority of our airport stops in Africa, Extraordinary Journeys arranged airport transport. In Kenya, this person quickly moved us through passport control to baggage claim, and then made sure that we made it to our guide. This guide (also arranged by EJ) took us to and from the airport, as well as to the spots we visited during our time in Nairobi.

African Hospitality

In this post, and in the next several posts, you will notice a theme: “African Hospitality”. It is a hospitality that is unparalleled and one that stems directly from African culture, tradition and community based values. I have yet to visit Africa without feeling genuinely cared for while there.

This care was a crucial part of our experience at OneFortyEight. While the art and beautiful property were outstanding, the hospitality is the real star. 

We were greeted by Ruth and Mags as we pulled into the driveway. Our bags were taken to our room and we were given a tour of the main part of the property and of our studio apartment. We freshened up and went back into the main house, where a huge fire was burning and our bottle of champagne was chilling over ice.

onefortyeight NYE

As Mags said goodnight, she explained the rules to us: Ruth would stay with us until we went to bed and would get us anything we wanted from the bar or kitchen. Or, if we wanted the place to ourselves, we could excuse Ruth, help ourselves at the bar and just write down whatever we took. We were set with our champagne, but enjoyed Ruth’s company. She gave us a little bit of background on the property and taught us a few words in Swahili, which she claims is a very easy language to learn. A little before midnight, we were able to convince Ruth that we would be okay without her for the rest of the night, settled on a time for coffee to be delivered to our room and to have breakfast on the patio and said goodnight. And there we sat, in this beautiful room, with a crackling fire, a bottle of champagne and each other. There is no other place or way I would want to ring in 2017.

onefortyeight

Mags was concerned that we would have wanted more activity for our New Year’s Eve, but it was so perfect. OneFortyEight’s hospitality was warm and attentive throughout our stay. The next day, Mags had suggested that we go out for dinner. She made us reservations and called her “go-to” taxi driver to take us and bring us back. He actually just waited for us at the restaurant. We didn’t take out enough shilling (Kenyan currency) at the airport, so Mags gave us some and charged it to our room. When we left for dinner, Mags and Ruth walked us to the car. When we returned, they were waiting for us in the driveway. When we returned from dinner, Ruth asked if we would like a drink by the fire. We did, but unfortunately we needed to pack. So Ruth, upon her suggestion, brought a glass of wine to the room. We had a very early departure the next morning. Ruth arrived with some coffee and biscuits, well before dawn, and when we got to the car, there was a packed (delicious) breakfast for us. And, of course, Mags and Ruth saw us off. Their personalized care and attention were unforgettable.

The Property

Art completes what nature cannot bring to finish. The artist gives us knowledge of nature’s unrealized ends. – Aristotle

On that first night, as I walked around the living area of the main house, I mentioned to Ruth, “I just want to look at everything in here.” To which she responded, “Just wait until you see it in the light.” She was right.

onefortyeight main house living

When I refer to the living room of the main house, I am referring to the former home of artist Antonio Trzebinski and his wife, designer Anna Trzebinski. There is an enthralling side story, that is worthy of its own post, but it is a fifteen year old mystery full of a deep rooted history and speculation. So, I will leave you to do your own research. Mr. Trzebinski died (at a young age) fifteen years ago and Mrs. Trzebinski has since moved to London with their children. What is left is a perfectly preserved home wreathed in the late artist’s work and dotted with native tribal elements and, well, quirkiness. And, that was the deal when this home was turned into a boutique hotel: It stays as it is.

Wood is the core element of the main house. From the outside, it looks like a log cabin in the woods.

OneFortyEight Nairobi

The wood continues throughout the inside and is the perfect backdrop to show off the artwork and other decorative details. The first thing you notice upon entering is a massive wood fireplace crowned by an emerald chandelier. However, the art, particularly the two pieces that flank the fireplace, quickly demand your attention. And the art… it is fascinating, and bizarre and beautiful and it is everywhere. In front of the fireplace is a wooden carved out coffee table filled with ostrich eggs and covered in glass. And just behind that coffee table is a sofa that swallows you the second you sit on it. And you should let it do so. And sit there. And take a moment to soak in that incredible room.

onefortyeight mainhouse living

Extending off the main room is a verandah that is equal in size, if not larger. The most lovely thing about the verandah is that it brings the indoors outside with more art, furnishings and multiple sitting areas that all look out onto the tree filled property (and the occasional snacking warthog).  On the corner of the verandah is a large square table, where we enjoyed breakfast.

onefortyeight breakfast

It is a serene little spot to lounge with a glass of wine and a good book.

onefortyeight nairobi

onefortyeight Nairobi

OneFortyEight Nairobi

Inside, an intricate wooden stair case leads to the second floor of the main house, which holds the master bedroom, with a private verandah, and two additional bedrooms.

onefortyeight Nairobi

OneFortyEIght Nairobi

On the third floor there is a large loft with three single beds. This room is intended for children and it looks like it would be an absolute blast.

Onefortyeight Nairobi

All rooms are available separately or large groups or families may reserve the entire house.

The studio apartments (where we stayed) are what was formerly Mr. Trzebinski’s studio. It has been beautifully converted into four, two-story, open concept lofts. Each has a grand entry way, with floor to ceiling windows, that leads to a cozy sitting area and the bathroom with a large rain shower. OneFortyEight Nairobi

The top floor has the bed, a small sitting area and a television. It’s a brilliant design and the windows and open concept make it bright and cheery.

onefortyeight studio bedroom

onefortyeight studio entry

All four studios are identical in layout, but vary by the pieces of Mr. Trzebinski’s art that adorns the walls.

The new owners of OneFortyEight created a small addition to the studio.

onefortyeight outside studilo

On the back side, they added a sitting room that is a replica of the living area of the main house. You can find those huge, plush couches, a large wooden fireplace, a dining area and, of course, more art.

onefortyeight studio

Upstairs, you will find two single story studios with huge soaking tubs.

A Perfect Day in Nairobi

We technically had one full day in Nairobi, but we were able to see a lot thanks to OneFortyEight’s prime location. On that day, I spent the morning wandering around the property with Ruth and getting a little too excited about the resident parrot, warthogs and peacocks.

Onefortyeight parrot

onefortyeight peacock

We were picked up at 2:00 and taken next door to the Giraffe Centre, which is the breeding center and home to Rothschild giraffes. It is a nonprofit center focused on education. And, you can feed the giraffes! And kiss them. As well as learn about them and the center’s conservation efforts.

Giraffe Centre Giraffe Sanctuary

It’s well worth a visit. It costs about 5 USD per person and you can plan on visiting for about 45 minutes.

From there, we went to a great shopping center that is filled with a number of small shops selling local, handmade crafts and jewelry. If your bag is already filled to the brim (like mine), they will ship your purchases.

We had just enough time for coffee before our 4:45 appointment at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. We have supported the DSWT for a long time and have been wanting to visit for years. The Sheldrick’s story is amazing, and I highly encourage you to check it out. The very short version is that they rescue baby elephants whose mothers have been killed as a result of poaching. But it’s not just elephants. They have two rhinos, a giraffe and recently a rescued baby hippo…named “Humpty”. You can “adopt” any of the rescues, and if you do, you can visit the center during a special viewing time.

David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

We were lucky enough to meet our adopted baby Jotto. Isn’t he amazing?!

david sheldrick wildlife trust Jotto

We spent a little over an hour at the DSWT and then made it back to the hotel with plenty of time to freshen up before a lovely dinner at the legendary Talisman.

Our stay at OneFortyEight  far exceeded my expectations. At the time, they had been open for less than two weeks, which means they will only get better as they perfect their rhythm. My only regret is that we didn’t stay one more night, just so I could spend a few hours on that verandah.

OneFortyEight is a distinctive property, in a beautiful setting, with imitable service. It is  the perfect place to recover from the long journey to East Africa and slowly adjust to being in Africa.

To find out more about OneFortyEight Nairobi, you can visit their website.

Details2

OneFortyEight Infograph

Good to Know

  • With only ten rooms, this a peaceful boutique hotel.
  • This is a wonderful place to unwind and adjust to a slower pace. Embrace it.
  • There is a boutique onsite.
  • You will see stunning glass bottles all over the property. They are handmade by the owner.
  • There is a lovely wine, beer and liquor selection.
  • If you are visiting the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, you must make reservations in advance.
  • Allow plenty of time if you are departing out of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.

 

 

Categories
Africa East Africa

What to Expect on your African Safari

This past summer I was with my book (wine) club and the topic of Africa came up. I don’t recall the exact line of questioning, but I was asked to explain what about Africa makes me love it so much; what keeps pulling me back. That question is both easy and difficult to answer. It’s easy to explain how wonderful the people are, how beautiful the landscape is and how exciting and humbling it is to see wildlife in its natural habitat. It’s impossible to explain that feeling that penetrates you, down to your soul, that you leave Africa with and keep forever.

For one of the ladies there, the answer I gave was good enough. She was intrigued. She emailed me the next day asking more questions and a little over two months later, she was on a three week adventure through Africa with her Mom.

I have yet to find the words that best describe how special being in the bush is, but I’ll try. It’s the beauty of seeing the sun rise and set each day and taking a moment to enjoy it. It’s being in the presence of some of the most magnificent animals on earth and experiencing them in their natural habitat; where they should be. It’s the rush of racing in your game vehicle to see that one animal you have been waiting to see. It’s seeing the sky turn, in an instant from welcoming to menacing, and deciding to wait it out in your vehicle instead of rushing back to camp. It’s having pre-dinner cocktails with other travelers  from around the world and having at least one thing in common to talk about: “What did you see today?” It’s sundowners: pulling over in a beautiful spot for the sole purpose of watching the sun set, with cocktail in hand. For some camps, it’s absolute luxury in the rawest of places. It’s the people and their genuine kindness and the culture rooted in family and tradition. 

win-serengeti-sunset

In the previous post, we chatted with Extraordinary Journeys about how to plan a safari. In this post, Helen, Camp Manager at Nomad’s Lamai Serengeti, is going to tell us what to expect when we get there.

win-lamai      Photo Courtesy of Lamai Serengeti

WIN: How long have you been working as the Camp Manager at Lamai Serengeti and how did you get into it?

Lamai Serengeti: We’ve been here for almost 18 months now. My husband and I came to relief manage for 2 weeks and loved it so much we never left. Clyde worked in a safari lodge before we met and twisted my arm to move to the wild 9 years ago. In my former life I used to be a dancer and Ballet Teacher … so this is a completely different!

WIN: What does a typical day on safari look like?

Lamai Serengeti: Guests usually wake around 05h30 and head out for a game drive by 06h00 – 06h30 taking a picnic breakfast with them (early mornings are typically good for animal sightings). By around 13h00 (1:00 p.m.)tummies are rumbling again and it’s back to camp for a buffet lunch (Alternatively guests can take picnic lunches and spend the whole day in the Bush). Early afternoons can be spent at the pool, having a nap, reading a book or just soaking up the view. After some afternoon tea (or a gin and tonic), it’s time for another game drive at around 16h30 4:30 p.m.). A sundowner out in the bush is a favourite end to the day before retreating back to camp for a hot shower, drinks by the fire and then dinner. Most guests tend to be ready for bed by about 22h00, although there’s sometimes a party vibe, depending on who’s staying with us.

win-breakfast-on-a-kopje

WIN: What kind of food is available?

Lamai Serengeti: Anything from typical cereals and egg and bacon for breakfast, to light salad lunches with samoosas, kebabs, wraps and freshly baked breads. Dinners are 3-courses – stuffed chicken breasts, beef fillet or traditional swahili food. Of course, if you let us know we can cater for special diets for folks who are vegan, lactose intolerant, etc.

 WIN: Are there safari/game drive rules and etiquette? What are they?

Lamai Serengeti: It’s best to be quiet in the vehicle, particularly if you’re close to animals. Smoking and talking on your cell phone would be considered inappropriate. If you’re sharing a vehicle with other guests, it’s always good to ask if anyone particularly needs to sit close to the front (perhaps they’re hard of hearing and need to be close to the Guide, or aren’t very mobile) The Guide has rules too, like not venturing off-road, so you shouldn’t ask him to do that. He also has etiquette guidelines towards other vehicles when sharing a sighting so that everyone gets to have a good view. 

WIN: Many people leave an African safari with a feeling of pure awe and amazement that is often described as…”indescribable”. It’s a feeling that is often chalked up to “African footprints on the heart”. Do you have thoughts on what this feeling is?

Lamai Serengeti: You’re absolutely right, this is a common feeling. It’s something about how Africa touches your soul. Maybe it’s a reminder of how things once were; when humans lived within their environment instead of trying to control it. 

When it rains, you shelter; when it’s dark, you sleep – no trying to go, go, go 24 hours a day – like so many of us do today.

WIN: What animals are most commonly seen?

Lamai Serengeti: Goodness that’s hard to answer because there are so many! During the months when the wildebeest migration is in the area (June-October) the most commonly seen animals would be wildebeest and zebra (in the hundreds of thousands) Throughout the rest of the year we have an abundance of ‘plains game’ antelope, zebra, buffalo as well as crocodile, hippo and we’re lucky to have a large pride of 20+ lion which have become known as the ‘Lamai Pride’ We are also lucky to often see leopard and cheetah.

win-migration

WIN: What is your favorite animal to see in the bush and why?

Lamai Serengeti: I think I’ll say Hippo because we don’t ever see them in and around camp (we’re not close to the river) and I just love their cute, fat bodies with short stubby legs. I know they’re not really cute by the way …. Never get between a hippo and the river or you’re history!

win-hippo-in-water

WIN: I remember getting ready for my first safari. It had been planned for the better part of a year and it wasn’t until about a month out that it dawned on me that I might see a “kill” and I panicked a bit. I have been two more times since that trip and have yet to see a kill. How common is it to see a kill and how do you prepare your guests for it?

Lamai Serengeti: You’d be incredibly lucky to witness a kill. Although it can be a bit gruesome, it’s all part of the circle of life and very educational. You’re more likely to see predators eating on a carcass rather than the actual moment of killing and there’s sometimes a hunt which is unsuccessful. During migration season you might see a crocodile take down a wildebeest in the river, a cross between drowning and fatal injury. Although most guests are relieved to see the wildebeest escape the clutches of a crocodile jaw, we must always remember everyone needs to eat. We don’t bring this up with guests when they arrive, we would not like to raise expectations – and our Guides are fantastic at explaining the behaviour if they are lucky enough to experience it with their guests.

WIN:How close will we be to the animals?

Lamai Serengeti: Hopefully very close! But seriously, it depends on the animal. Snoozing lion for example, if approached slowly and quietly won’t mind if you get as close as 5 metres. Plains game, like zebra are far more skittish, you’re more likely to see them standing still at 10-15 metres away.

win-aa-by-lions

WIN: How safe will I be? Is there anything I should look out for? Anything poisonous?

Lamai Serengeti: In the vehicles you are safe if you listen to your Guide. In camp you are safe as long as you do as instructed when you arrive. Walking alone within the camp in daylight is fine as long as you keep your eyes peeled and stay on the pathways. In darkness an askari (guard) will always walk with you. In case of animal encounters, they know how to react and buffalo are common in our camp at night. There are very dangerous snakes, like the Black Mamba, but seeing them is uncommon. They don’t like us as much as we don’t like them! 

WIN:How many people are in the vehicle during a game drive?

Lamai Serengeti: This depends on how you book your safari – For a relatively small additional cost you can book a private vehicle which can be 1-7 people together with your Guide. Great for family groups or couples who want flexibility. Otherwise you can book what we call a ‘Game Package’ and this means you’ll share the vehicle with other guests (usually up to 6 people) I like to recommend a private vehicle if you have specific ideas about what animals or birds you’d like to try to pursue or about how you’d like to structure your day. Imagine you desperately want to search for the elusive Rhino and your vehicle mates only want to watch Lilac-Breasted Rollers and other beautiful birds!

win-safari-vehicle

WIN: What are some other activities available at the lodges?

Lamai Serengeti: Walking is a favourite alternative to game drives. You can walk for any duration, perhaps a short 1 hour stroll before a sundowner in the late afternoon or a good 3-4 hour hike in the early morning when it’s not yet too hot. Your Guide will accompany you along with a National Park Ranger and our Scout who both must carry rifles to keep you protected in case of an animal incident. We have a pool in each of our 3 locations at Lamai, the perfect way to cool off in the heat of the day, plus a shop for some retail therapy! We can also arrange Hot Air Balloon trips, at sunrise, which is A beautiful way to experience the Serengeti.

WIN:What are the top five things I should have with me on safari?

Lamai Serengeti: A camera, binoculars, sunscreen, a hat, a warm jacket (temperatures can be cold early morning and hot by 10am!)

WIN: For the active people, is it possible to exercise while on safari? Are there gyms at some of the lodges? Can you go for a run? 

Lamai Serengeti: There’s no gym here at Lamai Serengeti (but there are in some luxury lodges) We have various tracks and pathways, which if you really wanted to, you could run. We have to insist you run with an askari (guard) to make sure you stay safe …. We wouldn’t want you to be mistaken for a running antelope! Some airstrips allow running there, with a car driving alongside you. 

WIN: Is wifi available?

Lamai Serengeti: Yes, we have wi-fi in the main lounge areas at Lamai Serengeti and in Mkombe’s House… Always good for checking in with the dog-sitter and making your friends green with envy when you post photos of your day!

WIN:What is your favorite time of year in the bush and why?

Lamai Serengeti: Here in the northern Serengeti I enjoy October/November and January/February. Fewer guests visit at those times of year, so there are fewer cars out and about and you feel like you’re really alone in the wild. You might get some rain November – March, but I personally think that to experience an African thunderstorm adds even more to your safari – plus when the landscape turns lush green it’s incredibly beautiful. Wildlife documentaries which inspired people to travel here only duration the migration season have a lot to answer for!

win-serengeti-storm

Helen, thank you so much for taking the time to chat with us. We look forward to seeing you soon!

As always, I’d love to hear your questions and comments. Have you been on safari? Are you ready to plan yours?