This week. THIS week, we leave for the first phase of our Round the World journey. As I finally have a moment to catch my breath and look over the itinerary created, all I can think is wow. WOW. It is an itinerary that spans three continents, eight countries and both summer and winter, all within five weeks. And this is just the first of three phases of our Round the World journey.
There have been some changes since I first posted about this trip, but the biggest news is that I was able to rope in a friend and fellow travel loving, adventure seeking, triathlete, Marisa, to join me in Southeast Asia.
The planning has been intensive and some of the details have only recently been finalized. We had to get creative with some logistics as infrastructure isn’t great in many of the countries we are visiting. But in the end, we have created an itinerary with the perfect mix of luxury, adventure and culture. It’s perfect and I am ecstatic to share it with you.
In addition to fantastic experiences, you can expect to see coverage of premium flight cabins and luxe hotels.
So, here it is. Round the World Phase I:
Stop 1: London
Spending a couple of days in London is always a great way to break up the flight from San Diego to Africa. It takes two long flights to get to that side of the world from San Diego. The flight to London is just under eleven hours and the flight from London to Nairobi is just under nine hours. So, although doable in back to back flights, if you have the time, breaking it up is a great way to adjust to the time change and to add a fun stop. Eddie has taken charge of planning London, but what I am looking forward to most is seeing London dazzle, all dressed up in holiday lights. And, stopping by a Christmas Market or two. Or five.
Stop 2: Africa
This is where we leave winter for summer. For the Africa section of this trip, we got to work with the stellar safari experts, Extraordinary Journeys. We typically use tour operators to help with travels to Africa (and highly recommend doing this) and, I can easily say that Extraordinary Journeys has been the best we have worked with. Not only for their knowledge, but for their amazing customer service. They booked our lodging, arranged our internal flights, escorts through the airports, airport transfers and a guide to take us around Nairobi.
They also found an amazing hotel for us in Nairobi that I am really looking forward to. It is called OneFortyEight and it is brand new! They opened their doors less than two weeks ago and the images of the property are just stunning.
Photo courtesy of OneFortyEight Hotel
They are set right outside of the city and adjacent to the Giraffe Sanctuary. We will be visiting the Giraffe Sanctuary and another incredibly special place. I am going to keep this one secret but, it is a place that has been near and dear to my heart for a very long time and I feel so privileged to be able to visit.
After a couple of days in Nairobi, we head to Pemba Island, which is part of the Zanzibar Archipelago off the coast of Tanzania.
Then, after a few days of relaxing at a dreamy little secluded spot on the Indian Ocean, we make our way to our safari.
We are returning to a place that fills my soul with light and life: the Northern Serengeti. We will be staying at the beautiful Lamai Serengeti, tucked perfectly into a Kopje, overlooking the rolling grassland of the northern Serengeti.
Photo Courtesy of Nomad Tanzania
Here, we will enjoy morning and evening game drives with some relaxation in between. I cannot wait for the humbling feeling while in the presence of a majestic lion, watching a massive elephant move gracefully through the grass, sundowners in the bush and the evening orchestra of hyenas calling, lions roaring and the hum of wildebeest.
We will have a few days of safari and then we depart (with me in tears) for Maputo, Mozambique. That is where the Round the World ticket begins. From there, we fly to Singapore with a quick stopover in Doha. The aviation nerd in me is hoping for enough time during our layover to explore the 10,000 square meter Al Mourjan lounge in Doha’s brand new airport, complete with a pond, two restaurants and a game room.
Stop 3: Singapore
After a couple of long flights, we arrive in Singapore in the afternoon. I’ve left the planning to Eddie, but this is where we do some eating. Singapore is known to have some great food options, with hawker stalls being a major draw. Of course we will do more than eat, but I’m pretty excited to try out the different foods. The other thing I am excited about is that we get to check out another new hotel. Designed by Philipe Starck, it looks like an interesting blend of contemporary luxury with a touch of quirkiness.
The one thing that I am not looking forward to with this trip is parting ways with my favorite person to travel with. My favorite person to be with. I know the next couple of weeks will be fantastic, but it will be hard to say goodbye to Eddie.
Stop 4: Vietnam
As Eddie makes his way home, I’ll make my way to Hanoi. I’ll arrive in the early evening and Marisa will arrive late the same night. We’ll have the next day to explore Hanoi before heading to Halong Bay to overnight on a Junk Boat. This “Junk Boat” is sheer luxury. We’ll be sailing with Heritage-Line’s “Violet”.
Photo courtesy of Heritage-Line
As far as junk boats go, this one is small, intimate and one of the best. We will sail through Halong Bay, enjoy some amazing food, top notch service and a few excursions before returning to Hanoi for our flight to …
Stop 5: Laos
We will spend the night in Luang Prabang and wake early the next morning to begin three days of trekking through Laos. We’ll explore villages, lunch at waterfalls and just be bodies in motion. After trekking we will spend a couple of more nights in charming Luang Prabang.
Stop 6: Thailand
On our way to the beaches, we are going to have an extended, overnight layover in Bangkok. The last time Eddie and I visited Thailand, we had to skip Bangkok due to anti-government protests that disrupted the country’s capital, so I am looking forward to spending a little bit of time there!
Then, we will spend four days enjoying Thailand’s beaches, which are some of the most beautiful in the world. We will be staying at a lovely boutique resort right on the beach. I’m keeping this part secret, so you’ll just have to follow along to see where it is.
Stop 7: Cambodia
Our final stop is Cambodia. We planned all of Southeast Asia around this one stop as we will be doing a cycling tour here! We will spend four days exploring Cambodia by bike with Grasshopper Adventures. We will begin our first day by watching the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Then, we will spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the temples in the massive temple complex by bike before departing the next day for three days of cycling through Cambodia’s countryside, complete with a ride on a bamboo train and a visit to floating villages.
Photo courtesy of Grasshopper Adventures
Another exciting aspect is that I will be taking over Coeur Sports Facebook for some live updates along the way, so be sure to follow Coeur on Facebook.
After our cycling tour, we’ll spend our final night in Ho Chi Minh City before departing the next morning for home. We won’t have much time there, so Marisa is suggesting we just stay up all night and sleep when we get on the plane. I’m a big fan of that idea.
That’s the itinerary for Phase I! The photographer in me is beaming with the thought of the images I’ll have the opportunity to capture, the adventure seeker in me is pulsating with the amount of off the beaten path exploration included. The inquisitive me is salivating at the thought of all of the culture and life I’ll be able to experience and soak up.
Travel undeniably changes you and I can’t wait to discover new parts of myself through discovering new parts of the world.
I hope you join me for this wild ride!
The best ways to stay up to date are via When Is Now’s Instagram and Facebook. There will be reviews and other write-ups once we return.
As always, I’d love to know your questions and/or input on any of these areas!
Here it is! Our third and final installment of “Our Top Hotel Rooms”! We are completing the list with four properties that are located in Zambia, the Caribbean and two countries in Europe.
Islands of Siankaba| Livingstone, Zambia
I have been to Islands twice now and it is a place that is very special to me. When I go here, I feel like I am at home. This lodge, laid out on two small islands connected by rope bridges, is on the Zambezi river.
On one island is the dining, lounge and pool area, and on the other island are the seven chalets. Each tented chalet is on stilts above the Zambezi and is complete with hardwood floors, claw foot tubs and a deck where you can sit and enjoy the river.
At night you go to sleep to the sound of the river and the occasional hippo grunt and wake in the morning to playful vervet monkeys. It is the ultimate in peace and relaxation. The last time I visited was in the month of August and the evenings were chilly. I returned to my room with a heating blanket on and ready for me on my bed and (as per my request) the tent slightly opened, so I could hear the river. Islands of Siankaba is a place I will always return to.
To find out more about this little slice of heaven, click here.
Jade Mountain| Soufriere, St. Lucia
Jade Mountain is a classic example of us picking a destination based solely on the lodging choice. This was not the first time we had done this and it definitely won’t be the last. Finding Jade Mountain really sealed the deal on which Caribbean location we were going to spend Thanksgiving.
When you stay at Jade Mountain, you don’t stay in a room…you stay in a Sanctuary. Our sanctuary was J4, a moon sanctuary.
Each Sanctuary has its own long bridge that leads to a massive wooden door. Entering your sanctuary leads you down a hallway lined with a beautiful wooden armoire. The hallway then splits into two areas: an open bathroom with a huge Jacuzzi tub and, a large open space with a beautiful canopy bed, sitting area and an inviting infinity pool, with a view of the sea and pitons, that replaces a fourth wall.
You have a complimentary minibar in your room that is restocked with fresh snacks every day. You are also appointed a butler for your stay and are provided a firefly device so that you can contact your butler at any time.
This room was so spectacular we hardly left it other than for meals, a massage and a couple of trips to the beach.
A highlight was waking up to the soothing sound and fresh scent of a passing morning rainstorm.
The rooms and the entire hotel are an architectural dream. Perhaps Jade Mountain architect and owner Nick Troubetzkoy sums it up best: “When you combine earth, air, water and the ethereal view in this way, I believe you unlock a potential for an almost profound and magical level of enjoyment and celebration.”
The recently renovated Hotel D’ Angleterre has a sophisticated elegance feel to it. They’ve managed to update the 260-year-old building while maintaining the hotel’s neoclassical history. The décor and colors are Danish design at its best: clean and elegant with just a touch of modern, and an end result of the Dane’s own Hygge. One of our favorite things about this room was all of the modern technology that added to the convenience and comfort, including a B&O entertainment system, state of the art climate control and a Nespresso machine. Our room was large and included a nice sitting area.
The bed was very comfortable and had individual duvet covers.
The bathroom was also large and had great lighting. It seems that more and more, higher end hotels are including better “getting ready” lighting in their bathroom renovations and I love it.
Eddie particularly loved this hotel and I think the blend of comfort, technology and design had a lot to do with that.
We recently stayed at the legendary Belmond Hotel Caruso. This hotel had been on my “list” for a while, so when we decided on the Amalfi Coast, I knew exactly where we were staying. Our room was large, bright and airy.
We had a long hallway between the bathroom and the rest of the room.
The main part of our room had a deliciously comfortable bed, a nice sitting area and a desk. It is always nice to have some room to spread out! When Eddie takes out his contacts at night, he can’t see more than three feet in front of him, so he loved the TV lift cabinet at the foot of the bed.
The main part of the room also had large picture windows with expansive views of the coast.
All rooms at Belmond Caruso have white marble bathrooms. Ours was large with tons of storage, a soaking tub, shower and a vanity area with the best toiletries I have seen yet!
My favorite part of the room was the fairytale balcony that looked over the bright green lawn and the winding Amalfi coastline.
You can read our full review of the Belmond Hotel Caruso here.
That’s a wrap for our first “Top Hotel Rooms”. We’ll be sure to do a “Top” list like this at the end of each year. We hope you enjoyed it and it inspired you to check out one (or more) of these fantastic hotel rooms!
Here are three more amazing rooms from our top 10 hotels!
Sayari Camp| Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
When finalizing our stay at Sayari, we requested a room that was a bit removed from the rest of the camp and ended up in the honeymoon suite.
Our beautiful suite had hardwood floors, a big canopy bed with mosquito netting, a beautiful bathroom with a shower large enough to hold a rugby team, and a standalone tub that looked out over the Serengeti.
We had a large beautiful outdoor seating area and a separate area with an outdoor tub.
We had floor to ceiling windows that made those late afternoon thunderstorms that much more enjoyable.
But, my favorite was the morning that we had to be picked up for our morning drive (instead of walking to the main area) because a small herd of elephants were snacking on the vegetation outside of our suite.
We experienced the true romance of the Serengeti at Sayari.
We searched far and wide trying to find the perfect spot in the Maldives. I saw tons of beautiful resorts, but when I came across Six Senses Laamu, I immediately knew that this was “the one”. And when I showed it to Eddie, he agreed.We came to Six Senses Laamu after five days of safari in East Africa. The Maldives are a haul from East Africa and we were beat by the time we made it to the main island of Male. Fast forward two island hopper flights, a speed boat and a golf cart, and we are standing in our room with our jaws on the ground. We had never seen anything like it and, to this day, have yet to see anything that compares.
With views across the most beautiful waters I have ever seen, our room was a dream.
The room is centered by beautiful bed.
There is sunken seating and a writing desk that looks out over the deck to the sea.
The deck has built in loungers, a sunken dining area, couches, over water hammocks and direct access to the sea.
The sinks (which were designed to look like luggage) and loo with a view are on a separate level with two closets and views of the sea.
Aside from the fact that this is an overwater bungalow, the star of this room was the entirely separate, partially outdoor, bath and shower area. Enhanced with a beautiful light fixture, this room holds a tub that is completely clear so that you can see the beautiful sea below you and a shower that extends over the sea and can be accessed directly from the sea with a wooden staircase.
From this room, you could take another set of stairs to an outdoor viewing loft with a big, cozy couch. It was spectacular. We always bring music when we know we’ll be at a place where we’ll spend a lot of time in the room, but Six Senses Laamu provides their own beautiful music that just seemed to fit the surroundings perfectly. I would still love to get my hands on that play list. Each room comes with two beach cruisers to help you get around the island.
We stayed at Six Senses Laamu shortly after they first opened and they have made quite a few impressive changes since then. Our entire experience at Six Senses Laamu motivated me to set a goal of staying at as many Six Senses properties as possible.
To find out more about Six Senses Laamu, click here.
St. Regis Florence| Florence, Italy
We stayed in two beautiful rooms at the recently renovated St. Regis Florence. Both were gorgeous, but for this post, let’s focus on the Dante Suite. One of the most beautiful rooms I have ever stayed in.
The Dante Suite is the size of a small apartment. It has a separate sitting area that is reached by an entry way and leads into the bed area.
It is lavishly decorated with chandeliers, a grandiose headboard and beautiful velvet drapery. This suite is truly fit for royalty. The room comes with butler service which came in quite handy for an afternoon pick me up of espresso and biscuits.
There was ample storage, two bathrooms (one with a flatscreen) and a huge comfy bed that you felt like you were melting into at the end of a long day.
This suite had a small balcony with a lovely view of the Arno river.
I recently did a full review of our stay at the St. Regis Florence that you can find here.
To find more info on this beautiful hotel, click here.
Once upon a time there was a disillusioned girl who thought that a hotel was merely a place you rest your head for the night and, as long as it was clean and comfortable (enough), it wasn’t a significant part of your travel experience. Over the last seven years, that girl has learned how very wrong she was.
The truth is, a hotel, and the room you stay in, can play a significant role in your travel experience. Sometimes the room is the key draw; it’s a place you want to hunker down in for days on end. Other times your room is your safe haven and place of comfort at the end of a long day in an unfamiliar place.
This a list that I have wanted to post for a long time. I think the hotels that do it right, that become part of your experience, deserve some recognition. I have been writing this post in my head for a while now. Putting it “on paper” and reliving these fantastic stays has been a lot of fun for me!
Keep in mind that, for this post, we are just covering the rooms. These are rooms that have blown us away. Rooms we didn’t want to leave. Unforgettable rooms.
In order to do this list justice (and to save your eyeballs and possibly your job), this list will be broken down, in no particular order, into three separate posts.
Without further ado…
Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve | Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa
Although our stay at Leopard Hills was several years ago, it’s befitting that it is listed first as it was our first experience with a hotel that got it ALL right and it changed the way we viewed a hotel’s role in travel experiences.
Leopard Hills is comprised of eight suites nestled atop a lush hilltop.
We were lucky enough to end up in the honeymoon suite. Our room was beautifully decorated with floor to ceiling windows, a large plush bed and a separate sitting area.
The bathroom had a large soaking tub and a shower that had direct access to the outdoor shower on the deck. The deck also had a plunge pool that overlooked a watering hole.
Each night when we returned to our room there was a special note waiting for us with a poem or African proverb.
*Leopard Hills has recently undergone a renovation that includes new interiors and larger decks.
We didn’t know we wanted to go to Fiji until we came across Royal Davui. The resort is set on a small private island on the Beqa Lagoon and has fifteen, thatch roofed “vales”.
We stayed in a premium plunge pool villa which faced Beqa Island and had a flawless sunrise view.
Our vale was spread out on multiple levels, with separate living and bedroom areas.
There were beautiful hardwood floors throughout and both the living and bedroom areas featured panoramic doors that led to private verandas.
The bathroom, set right above the bedroom, had a large soaking tub (with a view of course!).
The best part? Taking a morning dip in that heated plunge pool!
You can find more on Royal Davui Fiji by clicking here.
Hotel Maria Cristina | San Sebastian, Spain
I recently did a full review of the Hotel Maria Cristina that you can find here. We had a fantastic experience at this Luxury Collection property and our room was a big part of it.
There is this great old Hollywood glam feel to this hotel that touches every corner. I really love the muted greys with pops of color and gorgeous chandeliers in all the right places.
When we opened the door to our spacious room, we found that there was wine AND cheese waiting for us. That certainly gets things off to a good start!
Most of the time, we are much like the typical American tourist in that, while in Europe, we don’t stay in one spot for more than three days. This time, we got to enjoy this glamorous room for a full five days. For that reason, we really enjoyed having such a large room to spread out in and the ample storage so we could actually unpack.
The Hollywood glam feel continued into the beautiful black and white marble bathroom.
And, to top it all off, we had a great view of the Urumea river!
You can find more out about Hotel Maria Cristina here.
I hope you enjoyed the first of this three part post! Up next: East Africa, the Maldives and Italy!
While planning our trip to the Amalfi Coast, one thing we heard often is that the best way to see the Amalfi Coast is from the water.
After considering the various options to see the coast by boat, we decided on a private tour on a smaller boat. We also did a private boat tour in Thailand and really enjoyed it, so thought we would try it out here. We contacted a handful of companies and learned that most offered similar rates and only varied when it came to the type of boat you wanted. We chose a company called Grassi Jr., which was also recommended to us by our hotel.
Can’t be stopped by the Amalfi Coast chop!
The weather was not great during the majority of our stay in Positano and we woke up to cloudy skies on the morning we were scheduled to go out on the boat. As I was checking my email, I saw that the trip was cancelled. Then it was back on again. Then cancelled. Then on again. Finally, they requested we walk down to the beach to chat with them about our options. After speaking with them about the weather and the outlook for the next couple of days, we decided to go out despite the cloudy skies and that we would turn back around if it started raining. Fair enough!
The water was CHOPPY. A crew of five helped get the boat close enough to the pier to pick us up and get us onto the boat between sets of waves. Once we were on, we met our captain: Francesco. The first 10 minutes, I felt guilty for having Francesco take us out on this less than ideal day, but I quickly realized that it was choppy for us because we didn’t spend our lives on the water. It was just another day at sea for Francesco.
We cruised down the coast slowly, hugging the shoreline the majority of the time. In addition to proving to be a great captain, Francesco also turned out to be a great source of local information. He pointed out all of the sights along the coast, including the lighthouses that were converted into vacation rentals and the celebrity homes. He also told us about the restrictions on the exterior paint colors of the buildings along the Amalfi Coast and the limited options for schools and hospitals in the area. And, it’s true, the Amalfi Coast is spectacular from the water.
Amalfi Coast treats and treasures
Typically, the boat tours all include a stop for a swim at the grottas, but the water was too choppy for most of them. We did get to pull into a grotto called Pandora’s Grotto. It was wild to be inside a grotto and to be able to listen to the water crash against the cave walls and then echo off of them.
We cruised along the coast and saw the 30 meter (98 feet) high Furore Bridge where each July, athletes and spectators gather for the annual high dive competition.
We saw the town of Amalfi, which is the largest town on the Amalfi Coast.
And, we saw L’uomo e il mare, which is a small waterfall near the town of Minori. On calm days, you can swim in it.
A private lunch on the Amalfi Coast
As we neared the end of the southern portion of the Amalfi Coast, Francesco offered to stop for lunch on the way back. As we slowed and turned towards land, we weren’t pulling up to a town, but to a small building surrounded by massive limestone cliffs.
We stopped and anchored right at the entrance of the cove and a gentleman on a rubber dingy came to pick us up.
Again, we waited for sets of waves to pass, which the two watermen had mastered, and then the three of us leaped into the dingy. The dingy took us to a small jetty where we repeated the process again.
When we arrived at the restaurant we were the only ones there. It was awesome. We had a feeling that the restaurant was so empty because of the weather, and it was, but primarily because Ristorante Bar Da Teresa was only reachable via water and not many boats were out that day.
We had a fantastic meal and thoroughly enjoyed our very hospitable and funny server. We had a delicious seafood platter, some pasta and wine (of course).
We asked for some espresso at the end of our meal and with our espresso came some homemade limoncello. It was all such a memorable experience.
To get back to the boat, we stood at the edge of the jetty as the waves crashed over it and waited for Francesco and the other waterman to coordinate getting the dingy to the jetty and then their signal for us to come down the jetty and then jump into the dingy. It was a bit of an adventure, but we were very safe with those two experts.
You can see a video of the sets coming into the jetty here.
No regrets
As we slowly cruised back up the coast, Francesco offered us two Peronis, which we gladly took him up on.
As we pulled back into Positano, Francesco took some photos of us with that iconic Positano background.
We pulled up to the pier and, again, had to time the sets before being able to leap off the boat.
Despite not having the best weather, we had an amazing time during our cruise along the coast. If you decide to see the Amalfi Coast this way (you should), we highly recommend Grassi Jr. And, ask for Francesco!
Earlier this month, we did something crazy. Awesome. But crazy. We bought “Round the World” tickets. This wasn’t something that was on our radar, but rumors and then verification of an irresistible deal reeled us in. Irresistible. The catch to this irresistible deal: Your original flight has to depart out of Maputo, Mozambique on the east coast of Africa.
We were in Mozambique in 2009
No way this deal is for real
As soon as I learned about these tickets, I also learned that complex rules dictate your itinerary, making it difficult to put together (more on that later). So, I spent a solid week on the phone and in an incredibly helpful forum on FlyerTalk trying to play with the rules. And, as I learned in the process, the rules are a moving target. As I got closer to perfecting our itinerary, rumors surfaced that the ticket price was about to increase because the folks at American Airlines realized that at the price offered, people were willing to fly out of Maputo. In fact, when I called to book the ticket, the agent chuckled when I told her from where we would be departing and she said that she had booked a lot of these tickets that week. So, we went through the lengthy process of booking two separate itineraries, passed the rule requirements, was quoted a base fare and was told to call in the morning to get the total price, which would include taxes and carrier fees. I called first thing in the morning and…the base fare had gone up. And, because these were not yet ticketed, the base fare quoted initially could not be honored. I was devastated.
The next day, a couple of people from the FlyerTalk forum messaged me to tell me that some other members of the One World alliance hadn’t yet increased their base fare. The very short version of what happened from there is that I spent another few days making long Skype calls to Australia and tried all I could to chase this fare, but it didn’t work.
One world, one year of travel
After much thought, we booked the tickets even at the higher base fare price. Our original itinerary on American was perfect, it was still on hold and there were a lot of reasons to move forward with it:
1. It was still an amazing fare. 2. It included destinations to which we were planning on traveling anyway. 3. We already had flights booked to Africa, so we wouldn’t have to figure out a way to get there for the originating flight. 4. Because we already had a round trip flight to Africa, we were able to cancel the return flight and have the points we used and the fees and taxes refunded. 5. It will be a great boost to this travel writing/photography pipe-dream of mine. 6. And the biggest reason: our 10 year wedding anniversary is right around the corner. Neither of us are into “things”. What we are really into is each other and exploring the world together. So, for our tenth wedding anniversary, we are giving ourselves and each other the gift of travel. One year of travel.
Eddie’s itinerary is a little different from mine as he has a business to run and client’s to take care of. But, I think we worked it all out brilliantly. There will be parts that I will do on my own and, in complete honesty, I’m feeling some trepidation about traveling alone, which I think I’ll get past quickly, but the hardest part will be being apart from Eddie. The few segments that I travel to without him will be places that I want to tick off my bucket list, and are farther down on Eddie’s list.
Photo courtesy of palawanisland.org
“You’re going to be gone for a year?!”
Our Round the World will be broken up into three phases over 2017. So if you are wondering (and we have been asked this question many times) no, we will not be gone for an entire year. We start this journey in December (on my birthday) and, as of now, it will end in early fall of 2017. I hope you all follow along on this journey.
For some, the above may be all you care to know (if you even cared to know that much). For the aviation junkies, adventure lovers, travel addicts and those who are curious about how the Round the World ticket works, read on.
Oneworld round the world. Here’s why
I’ve known for a while that these Round the World (RTW) tickets exist, but that was the extent of my RTW knowledge. I’ve learned a lot about them recently and that they carry some great benefits:
1. They save money.
2. Although the booking process is complex, the ticket itself is flexible.
3. It’s a great way to fill up your frequent flyer account.
One World offers a couple of options for their RTW tickets, but we selected the “One World Explorer”. This ticket is a continent and travel class based fare, where you choose the amount of continents you will visit and in which class you’ll travel (e.g., economy, business, first, etc.).
Regardless of the number of continents you choose, you have 16 segments you can use. Each flight counts as a segment. Or, you can include a surface segment, which means you will find your own transportation between the last city you arrived in and the next city from which you depart. One reason you would do this is if you want to fly around a little more in a certain country or area and don’t want those travels to take up your 16 allotted segments. One more very important thing, the original place from where you depart greatly impacts the ticket price.
I’ll just leave this here so you continue reading.
Good luck and godspeed
Are you with me so far? Great! Let’s get into the rules.
The rules can get really complicated, so I am only going to include the basics here: 1. You have one year from the date of your original departure to complete your RTW ticket. If you’re really ambitious, you have a minimum of ten days. 2. You can only fly in one direction: east to west or west to east. 3. Other than a few exceptions, you must end in the same country from where you departed. One of those exceptions is Africa. Here, you just need to end on the continent. 4. You can fly multiple directions within a continent, but there are some tricky restrictions on doing so. 5. You can change the date and time of your flights without a fee. 6.You can change the departure/arrival locations of your flights. If you make the change after you complete your first segment, you may incur a fee (as of the time of this post, I believe it is $150 each time you request one or more changes). If you make a change before you complete your first segment, you may be subject to any fare increases.
The above is just a basic explanation of the rules. You can find the rules in their entirety here. Just remember, they change often.
You’ve got options
Still with me?
As mentioned above, you have several options with the type of One World (OW) Explorer ticket you purchase based on the number of continents you visit and the travel class for all of your flights. The number of continents and travel class also affects the ticket fare. You can choose between three and six continents and you can jet around those continents in economy, business or first class. Whichever class you select will be the class you will be in for all of your flights unless that class is not offered on a particular flight, in which case you will be upgraded to the next available class.
You could see the northern lights with your RTW ticket. Once you have selected the number of continents and your travel class, your ticket will be labeled as such. The base name of the OW ticket is “ONE”. On the end of the base name is the number of continents you selected and at the beginning is your travel class. Economy = “L”, Business = “D” and First = “A”. So, if you purchase a five continent economy ticket, it would be called a “LONE5”.
Those are the basics. If this interests you, I suggest checking out The One World Round the World website here. You’ll get a good overview there but, the most beneficial information you will find is in FLyerTalk. Once you get in there, take a good amount of time to read through the posts. Look for questions you have that have already been answered, take the time to learn and understand the lingo and, when you’re comfortable, start asking questions. You will not find a more helpful group of people. This is also THE spot to find out where the best deal is.
Get to know the lingo!
From there, go back to the OW tool and test out your itinerary. The OW tool is not great for obtaining a price for your ticket, but it can be used to make sure your routing meets the requirements. You can book your ticket with any of the OW carriers, but the RTW Desk at American Airlines seems to be the most competent. As I have mentioned before, the rules change a lot. Often, the ticketing agents aren’t aware of the changes and often don’t have a full understanding of the rules. Because of this, it is really important for you to know the rules. As strange as this is, you will probably have to explain the rules, item by item, to the ticketing agent. I don’t want to deter you, but I think it’s important to know that the booking process can be time-consuming and intensive. However, it is so worth it in the end.
DONE4
So what did we end up with? We purchased a DONE4. Eddie’s itinerary is a little different than mine, but here are my 16 segments:
MPM- xDOH-SIN-DPS-HKG-MNL-NRT-SAN-LAX-JFK-TUC-LAX-LHR-CDG-DOH-SEZ. Although, a segment or two may change. It’s already changing.
Makes total sense, right? Fantastic, right!? Now, all that’s left to do is to find some beautiful hotels and amazing adventures. Oh, and a flight home at the end of all of this.
I am looking forward to sharing this journey with you!
At the heel of Italy’s boot lies beautiful beaches, rural vineyards, historic towns, diverse architecture, an art scene that rival’s Florence’s and top notch food and wine. The best part – the bustling crowds of the rest of Italy are not here (yet).
We barely scratched the surface of this off the beaten path gem, but we can tell you this with 100% certainty: the Italian region of Puglia deserves a spot on your list. Here’s why:
1. Puglia produces more wine than any other region in Italy, with the most popular grapes being Negroamaro and Primitivo. Set up a tasting tour with Path Tours and ride through the countryside in a 1968 Fiat. Try one of the Pope’s favorite wines: Five Roses rosé from Leone de Castris.
2. The town of Lecce, with it’s offerings of history, art, culture and great food is often referred to as the “Florence of the south”. We found it to be comparable if not better. And, there are fewer visitors that you have to share with.
3. Although the sites and streets lack major crowds during the day, Lecce’s main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo, buzzes with energy in the evenings. Locals and visitors relax along the ruins of the piazza with a beer or glass of wine before going out (or home) for dinner.
4. The people are especially kind. On one afternoon, I sat on a bench outside of a shop to reapply a Band Aid to my abused heel. The shop owner came out, gestured for me to wait, disappeared and then returned with a fresh stem of aloe.
5. About a 40 minute drive from metropolitan Lecce is the charming beach town of Otranto. Otranto, Italy’s most eastern town, frames the crystal clear Adriatic sea with it’s beautiful white buildings. We found a day trip to be perfect for some strolling and a delicious, fresh seafood lunch.
6. Also not far from Lecce’s city center is the Grotta Della Poesia (Grotto of Poetry). Located within the rich archeological site of Rocca Vecchia, this grotto is considered to be one of the most beautiful swimming holes in the world.
7. Bari, the largest city in the Puglia region and the region’s capital city, also has a charming old town.
8. Bari knows how to throw a party! The Festa Di San Nicola takes place during the first ten days of May, with the final three days being the most eventful and most crowded. This festival celebrates Bari’s Patron Saint, Saint Nicholas, with the final day ending in a large mass at the cathedral and a really impressive fireworks show!
9. Just south of Bari is another charming seaside town called Polignano a Mare. It’s most well known for it’s cave restaurant Ristorante Grotta Palazzese. You can read about our experience at this restaurant here.
10. But, we think Polignano a Mare has even more to offer like it’s quaint squares, stunning beach and beautiful sea cliffs.
Where To Stay
In Bari, check out the cozy B&B Zupetta 16. The hosts are great and the breakfast is fantastic!
In Lecce, we highly recommend the beautiful and historic Mantatelure.
The first stories I heard about Florence were from my grandparents who had two, very different memories of this historic city. My granny, the museum addict, remembers seeing the David for the first time and all of the beautiful art the city holds and the romance of being able to see it in person. My grandfather remembers not being able to find parking and driving around in chaotic circles, while trying to avoid getting a ticket, so that my granny could swoon over those beautiful pieces.
Now that I’ve finally been, I think about their two differing memories and I can tell you that they both perfectly sum up Florence: It is a bustling city somewhat restricted in flow by its historic small streets, yet it is so beautifully romantic and particularly so for anyone who has even the slightest interest in art.
We spent three days right in the city center and have a little bit of advice for anyone visiting for the first time.
1. Don't Drive
“Don’t drive.” My Papa’s exact words when I told him we were going to Florence. This was great advice! Florence’s city center is small and walkable. There may be one or two sites that aren’t walkable, but there are plenty of cabs that can get you to them. Driving and parking in Florence is more trouble than it’s worth. Save your sanity.
2. Go During the Shoulder Months
Florence is hot and crowded during the summer months. If you can, try to go during May or September. You’ll have lovely weather, fewer crowds and better hotel rates.
Small crowds at the Duomo in May
3. Get the Firenze Card
If you are going to be in Florence for at least a few days, and plan on visiting a lot of the museums and sites, you need the Firenze Card. Although it doesn’t cover the Duomo, it covers other major sites like Academia and the Uffizi. The card costs 72 Euros ($79) and is valid for 72 hours from when you enter your first museum. Another great benefit is that you have priority access to each site, which is such a time (and feet) saver!
4. Make Timed Entry Reservations
If you aren’t going to purchase the Firenze Card, book timed entry tickets for Academiaand the Uffizi. It will cost an extra 4 Euros for each ticket, but is well worth it. For one, you are guaranteed to get in and, for two, you won’t have to wait in line. We suggest reserving these tickets in advance. You can reserve them on each of their websites or here.
Botticelli’s Primavera at the Uffizi
5. Bring Comfortable Walking Shoes
Between the cobble stone streets and marble museum floors, your feet (and back) can take a beating on a busy day of sightseeing. Invest in a pair of good walking shoes. I am not talking about white sneakers that you often see paired with khaki shorts and a fanny pack. Please don’t. Comfortable shoes have really improved! Borne makes some (sometimes) stylish comfy shoes. But also some not so stylish ones. Do a little research; you may be surprised at what you find!
Worn out tourists on the Uffizi rooftop
6. Check Hours of Operation
A lot of museums are closed on Mondays. Be sure to check the hours of the museums you want to visit so you can plan around their closings. And, it’s not just museums. Many restaurants are closed as well. I am not saying that the city completely shuts down; there are tons of other things to do and places to eat. Just be prepared for a quieter Monday.
7. Know the Dress Code
Do as I say and not as I do? I made a pretty rookie mistake by not doing this. I assumed that dress codes were similar to cathedrals in other cities we had visited and had covered my shoulders and not my knees. I spent 20 minutes standing in line for the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore only to be turned away at the entrance. The family behind me in tank tops and jean shorts were able to enter, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
I wasn’t allowed to enter a cathedral because of this outfit
8. Hire a Tour Guide
If you are really interested in a site, this is well worth it! And, it’s often not that expensive. The tour guides outside of the Duomo were charging 20 Euros for a private tour. We have done this on several occasions and have always been glad that we did. For one, you skip the line. We did this at the Vatican many years ago and walked right by hundreds of people. For two, it’s an incredibly efficient way to see a museum, landmark or other important site. You won’t have to figure out where things are, play the buttons on your audio tour, read maps or try to figure out which room the exhibit you want to see was moved. We hired a guide in Pompeii, which is massive, and saw and learned plenty within 2 hours. For three, you will get so much more out of it. You can ask questions, request to see certain areas/pieces and you will always get more information than you would from a book or audio tour. Oh, and if you aren’t dressed appropriately, they will often have something for you to cover up with.
9. Shop for Leather
Florence is overflowing with beautiful leather products. You will find better bargains in the markets (watch out for fakes!), but you will find higher quality leather in the many boutiques.
10. Sunset Picnic at Piazzale Michelangelo
Pick up a bottle of chianti, prosciutto and some pecorino from a local shop and head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for a sunset picnic. Here, you’ll find some of the best views of the city and the Arno valley. If you’re into photography, this is a great photo spot. Just get there early before all of the good spots are taken. Because it is outside the city center, this is one of the few places to which you may have to take a cab or bus, but it is so worth it!
11. Eat Gelato
I mean obviously, right? But here’s the thing: not all gelato is created equal and there are gelato shops everywhere! Here are a couple of tips on how to find the real deal:
Look at the colors. The good stuff has natural color tones and not bright, florescent tones.
If it’s piled high in display cases, that likely means it is filled with air and other chemicals. Real gelato is displayed simply and is sometimes not displayed at all, but in covered tins.
12. Get Lost
Seriously. But, in a responsible and safe way. Even the most devoted of art and history fans need a break. Get lost in Florence’s charming side streets. If you enjoy photography, these side streets are a great place for street photography. And, you will be amazed at the sculptures and art that line Florence’s streets and buildings.
Florence Street Scenes
13. Download a Walking Tour
Rick Steves has walking tours for many major European cities, including Florence. You can find the app in the app store, download the tours you are interested in and you’re set! We find this is a great way to familiarize ourselves with a city while learning a lot about it.
14. Research Restaurants in Advance
We did not do this and ended up struggling to find descent places to eat. Not that there aren’t plenty of places to have a great meal. There are! There are also a lot of not so great, tourist trap places that can make finding great food more difficult. So, by doing a little bit of googling and Yelp perusing, you’ll be able to avoid the tourist traps and come up with some delicious finds.If you are there during busy periods, making reservations a few days ahead is recommended. The good restaurants, even some of the larger ones, fill up quickly.
Winter Garden at the St. Regis is phenomenal
15. Take a Day Trip
There are some great trips, outside of the city, that can be conquered in a day! You can rent a car just for the day, take the bus or, you can join a tour and not have to worry about driving and finding your way around. Here are just a few things you can do:
Wine Tasting- First, let me say that, if you are interested in wine and/or beautiful rolling hills and you have the time, spend a few days in the Tuscan countryside. It’s wonderful! If not, take a day trip to visit some wineries and enjoy the scenery. We toured with Azzurra Rosidini, with Viaggi d’Ambraand she was fantastic!
Visit Siena! It is a fantastic medieval town and a favorite among many. It’s about an hour and fifteen minutes by bus from Florence to Siena.
Go shopping! If you’re into luxury brands like Prada, Fendi and Valentino, you are in for a treat! There is a luxury outlet mall called…wait for it…”The Mall“. It’s about a 40 minute drive from Florence. You can take the city bus to get there or, The Mall can arrange a shuttle to pick you up. Be sure to take your passport so you can collect your tax refund while there.
There is a reason the Reader’s of Condé Nast Traveler named Florence as the best city in the world in 2015. It is a wonderful city with so much to offer: art, history, music, delicious food, beautiful wines and warm people. Florence is a city that should be on everyone’s “list”.
You may have seen the photos floating around the internet. Images of a two tiered restaurant with white table cloth clad tables, wood floors and simple lighting. All of this tucked into a cave that dangles over a bright blue sea. These images have been shared by just about every popular travel publication and the accompanying caption reads “Is this the most romantic restaurant in the world?” We had a chance to dine at The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese and here is what we experienced:
[dropcap]Location:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is one of two restaurants inside the boutique hotel Grotta Palazzese which is located in the absolutely charming seaside town of Polignano a Mare in the Southern Italy region of Puglia. Polignano a Mare is about a 45 minute drive from the main town of Bari. You can also get there by train/shuttle from Bari and Brindisi.
Tip: You enter through the hotel, which can be tricky to find. Once you park, you will see directional signs on the sides of buildings that take you to the hotel.
[dropcap]When to go: [/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is open from Easter to October. Their website says that they are open from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. We went at 12:30 p.m. and it was clear that we were their first seating. Literally the first people to walk through the door. They give you a 90 minute window to wine and dine. For two people, that was plenty.
Fortunately, our early arrival meant that we could choose any table we wanted. We chose one right by the edge. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and we were able to soak in the views of the Adriatic Sea and the sounds of the water gently lapping up against the cave.
Tip: When deciding what time you want to dine, think about what you’re looking for. The cave is nicely lit during the day and you can see out over the Adriatic. In the evenings, the cave is dimly lit. You won’t be able to see as much, but I am sure it is equally as beautiful.
Tip: Select an earlier reservation for either lunch or dinner, so you have a better chance at selecting the table you want. Arrive 15 minutes before your reservation time.
[dropcap]What to Wear:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is considered “upscale”. Here is the dress code info they provided in our email correspondence:
[quote]Dress code for males: no shorts, jeans or sandals; semi-formal required.
Dress code for females: smart/semiformal.
[/quote]However, there was a gentleman sitting next to us in shorts. I was made aware of this by my husband who, begrudgingly, had to change into pants in the car because I had forgotten to tell him about the “no shorts” rule.
I wore a nice flowy Maxi dress and my husband wore casual slacks and a polo, both of which were perfectly acceptable.
Tip: We were there in May. Being in a cave and right on the water it was just a little bit chilly, so bring a light sweater.
[dropcap]The Food:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is a Mediterranean/Italian/seafood restaurant. There are two ways you can order: You can order a minimum of three items from the à la carte menu or, you can order a four or six course meal from the pre-fix menu. If you choose the latter, the entire table must order that way. Here are both menus:
They make it clear that you must order as explained above. However, we saw several people just order one item from the à la carte menu.
Fortunately, I did a bit of research before our experience here, so I had an idea of what we were going into. I saw quite a few reviews that stated the food was “bad” or even “horrible”. I didn’t think it was bad at all. However, I didn’t think it was great nor did it justify the price. When we started the meal we both commented “Oh, it’s good.” With a head tilt and that high pitch voice that comes with surprise that it wasn’t terrible.
The wine list is pretty good and they also had a couple of interesting bottled beers to choose from.
[dropcap]The Service:[/dropcap]Again, I am glad that I did some research ahead of time. Along with the chatter about the food, there were quite a lot of complaints about the service. The most common description I read was that the servers were rude. I didn’t feel like they were rude, but they were cold and curt. No smiles, no pleasantries, just the bare minimum of seating you, taking your order and bringing it to you. Not at all what you would expect from the caliber of restaurant that The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese portrays itself to be.
Tip: Don’t take the curtness personally.
[dropcap]Cost:[/dropcap]Pricey! I am all for paying a little extra for unique, enjoyable experiences (especially when it comes to food and wine), but it has to be worth it. If we would have walked away from pleasant, welcoming service and great food, it wouldn’t have seemed so pricey. With that setting, we probably would have thought it was a steal!
The four course menu starts at 100 Euros ($110) p/p.
The six course menu starts at 120 Euros ($133) p/p and there is another for 150 Euros ($160) p/p.
The à la carte menu has items that range from 32 Euros ($35) to 58 Euros ($64). So, having to order a minimum of three items, you are no better off.
My husband had a beer and I had a glass of rosé. I can’t remember the exact pricing, but it was much higher than average. Especially for that area.
[dropcap]The Cave:[/dropcap]The cave is beautiful! As mentioned above, the décor is very simple, which allows the historic grotta be the star of the show. It is dimly lit by lamps and the rest is filled by natural light. There are two levels for seating. The much larger bottom floor is where you enter and is the main floor of the cave.
What you can’t see in a lot of the photographs of the cave you might find online is that the back of the cave opens up to a deeper, water filled cave.
The upstairs has a much smaller seating area and a small bar. It really is lovely and incredibly unique. It has quite the history too, as it has been used for banquets since as early as the 1700’s.
[dropcap]Is this the most romantic restaurant in the world?[/dropcap]So, back to that unanswered question that seems to accompany every photo of this restaurant. For me, there are too many key elements missing for The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese to be able to hold such a grand recognition. This rings especially true being that it is located in a country that oozes romance and prides itself on its unforgettable cuisine. It is absolutely a beautiful and unique setting, but it ends there. On this trip alone, we had several dining experiences that were far more romantic, like at Belvedere in Ravello or Michelin-starred La Sponda in Positano. Neither are set in a cave, but they certainly aren’t lacking in views, food, ambiance and service. And, at both, I thought to myself “this is so romantic”.
Now, I am not trying to be a “Debbie Downer”. I want you to be prepared. Here’s why: if this is something you are remotely interested in seeing. GO. It is lovely. Just go with your expectations in check. If you go in knowing what you’ll get, you will be able to enjoy the uniqueness of the setting. And, the town of Polignano a Mare is definitely worth a visit.
A few bits of additional info:
Reservations – I found The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese to be very responsive and easy to communicate with via email. They do require a credit card to hold your reservation.
Parking – The hotel does not have its own parking. They will send you a map to show you where the nearest paid parking lot. We were able to find parking on the street, though it was challenging to interpret the various parking signs (and the translation that Google Translate provided was indicative of the limits of that technology at this time). We found a car leaving a space and hoped for the best.
Photographs – The staff at The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese are fine with you walking around to take photographs. I found that the best vantage point, to take a photo of the entire grotto, was from the tiny window in the ladies room.
Leave yourself a couple of hours to explore Polignano a Mare. Maybe more if you want to relax on the beach.
Awww….Italy. What can I say? It’s just perfect. This trip was 9 years to the month from our first trip to Italy (and my second time to Europe). Not only did it give me so many more reasons to love Italy, but it gave me lots of reminders of why I fell in love with it in the first place.
We booked this trip a year in advance. We had always talked about returning to Italy, but never made any real plans to do so. And then, as if sent from the international business class heavens, British Airways had an irresistible Club World sale. So that, paired with a few glasses of wine, led to the booking of two round trip tickets to Ital…nope, Zurich. The sale was to Zurich and that was close enough to Italy.
As the Amalfi coast was a major influencer in this trip, we planned everything around going there. We settled on those days, added Florence and Tuscany, and still had a few days left. I did a little research, specifically on off-the-beaten path places in Italy, and there was one region that came up quite often: Puglia. Just wait until I tell you about amazing Puglia.
Positano
Otranto in the Puglia region
Maybe it was because this was our second time to the country, but I seemed to be hyperaware of and in tune with everything. Hopefully, these observations will assist you in planning your trip to Italy. Once you’ve gone, it’s easy to see why people keep returning to Italy. It’s a pretty special place. Here’s why:
The people
Italians are warm. When an Italian asked me how I was enjoying Italy, I commented how much I enjoyed the people. Her response was “yes, we are a sunny people.” That pretty much sums it up!
Italians really do talk with their hands. A lot. It’s great.
Italians really do say “Mama Mia!” It’s also great.
Italian cities, like most cities in Europe, come alive at night. People dine out and they gather in the main squares, or piazzas as they’re called in Italy, and lounge with a bottle of wine. It’s beautiful. I highly recommend you take part in it.
Evenings in a Piazza
Italians are very conversational. Talk to them. It will be pleasant and often funny and you will learn so much!
The food and wine (Oh. My. Goodness.)
The food is so fresh. All of it. In fact, that is how we Americans justify (to ourselves) how Italians can eat all of that goodness and not be 1200 lbs. That goodness just doesn’t have the preservatives.
Deliciousness!
The local cuisine is heavily influenced by what grows in the area. Meals are prepared based on locally available sources and are very specific to each region. Even down to the type of pasta used. Naturally, areas near the sea use a lot of seafood and areas farther away use a lot of meat.
Reservations for dinner are always a good idea. Also, keep in mind that many restaurants close after lunch time, for siestas, and don’t open again until the evening.
There is SO MUCH wine. And, so many wine regions. It’s a beautiful thing. From the Primitivos grown in the south, to the Chianti Classicos and Brunellos in the middle, to the beautiful, dry whites from Piedmont in the north. It was hard to find a bad wine.
Top: Primitivo in Pulia Bottom: Chianti Classico in Chianti
The sights
I remember our first trip to Italy, and Rome in particular, and being amazed at how ruins are around every corner. Everywhere. Unfortunately, they have also been graffitied. Nonetheless, it is an amazing thing to walk through so much history no matter what direction you are heading.
Italian towns are literally built on top of each other. There are ruins on top of ruins. My favorite sight in Rome is the Basilica San Clemente, which is a 12th century church, built on top of a 4th century church, built on top of a pagan temple. In Lecce, the main square is discretely dominated by excavated ruins. Oh, and this is the spot where the locals gather to socialize.
Ruins in a Piazza
I can’t recall any other place I have been where simply turning a corner can force a “wow” right out of me. It was the Pantheon in Rome, the Duomo in Florence and the Duomo in Siena that got me. You really don’t see them as you approach them (maybe because you’re buried in turn-by-turn directions), but after you make that final turn and your eyes see them, they will take your breath away. And the “wow” that leaves your mouth is completely involuntary.
The Pantheon (from 2007)
The spectacular Duomo in Florence
Siena’s Duomo
Some of the most important arts, ruins, history, cathedrals and architecture is in Italy and it is abundant. Take the time to see these things. I recommend making sure that you follow any dress codes and purchasing tickets in advance. Many museums and sites now have timed entries to reduce crowds. If you plan on seeing many sights in one city, you may want to purchase some sort of city pass that will grant entry to many of these places and will usually offer some other benefits, such as a designated entry that often has a line of people much shorter than the general admission entry. You can find information on all of these by visiting that sight’s website or speaking with your hotel’s concierge. Particularly during busy season when getting a reservation for a museum or cathedral at your preferred time may be more challenging, you will be well served to figure out the sites you want to visit and make reservations well in advance and coordinate visiting sites that are near each other.
Botticelli’s Primavera and Michelangelo’s David
The diversity of the regions
We have an agreement that we will see as many countries as possible even though we are tempted to just return to most of them. Italy will be an exception, in large part because of its diversity. In the far south, in the heel of the boot, is the Puglia region with whitewashed buildings and a crystal clear blue sea. The Amalfi coast is a lush, mountainous tropical paradise. And then there are the cities of Rome, Florence and Milan. The rolling hillsides of Tuscany and Umbria and the many lakes and mountains of the north. We will go back because there is still so much to see.
The Italian rail system, Trenitalia, is excellent and makes it very easy to get around.
The high speed train
When to go
We went in May. It was an excellent time to go as the crowds were minimal. We hardly had any lines (except for the Duomo in Florence), we could take tons of photos without having someone walk right in front of us and we could set the timer on the camera (vintage selfie) without worrying someone snagging it. Dinner and museum reservations were no problem. The only problem we had was that the weather wasn’t so great. Though, from what we heard from the locals, the weather we experienced was an anomaly.
The place to ourselves!
Positano Rain
July and August are the busiest, warmest and priciest months. Keep in mind that most Europeans travel for the month, yep the MONTH, of August. Because Italy is so diverse, there are some seasons that are great for some areas and not so great for others. Do your research. Naturally, the beach areas are best in the spring/summer. If you want to truffle hunt, that is best done in the fall. It really depends on what you’re expectations are of this beautiful country.
I hope this gives you a solid overview and helps you in planning your trip. In my opinion, Italy is a perfect compilation of everything you would want on vacation. And, travelling within the country is easy. Lastly, if you are ready to take your first trip to Europe and haven’t decided on a country, I think Italy is a perfect place for Euro virgins.
I discovered San Sebastián completely by accident. In fact, we weren’t even planning on going to Spain, but after booking an amazing British Airways deal to Barcelona, I found myself googling “wine tasting Barcelona”, which led me to the Rioja region, which led me to San Sebastián.
It did not take much reading and researching to realize that we absolutely had to go to this magical land of food, wine, mountains and beaches. It turns out that San Sebastián is about a 5 hour train ride or a one hour flight from Barcelona, and the Rioja region is about a 90 minute drive away, but we got all of the logistics easily worked out and everything went smoothly.
Food, Wine, Mountains and Beaches!
Although there is a closer airport (Bilboa), the fantastic flight deal we booked had us flying in and out of Barcelona, so we took the train from Barcelona to San Sebastián. We arrived in the evening, made it to the historic Hotel Maria Cristina (read about our stay here) just in time to unload, freshen up and then head out to our first fantastic dining experience. I’ll pick up on that experience a bit farther down, but first let’s start with an overview of the food and wine the Basque are famous for.
Pintxos
What the heck is a pintxo (Peen-cho)? The simple explanation is that it is the Basque version of the Spanish tapa. Usually it is something skewered, but not always; it could also be a small plate. As the pintxo culture evolves, you can find pintxo bars that pull from the molecular gastronomy that’s seen in some of the Michelin starred restaurants in the area. Nonetheless, a pintxo is a small bite. In San Sebastián, the pintxos include plenty of the local/ traditional foods, such as fish, risotto (orzo) and seasonal produce. The Basque pride themselves on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Food is a big deal here.
Because of San Sebastián’s proximity to France, the French love to travel over the border for the Basque cuisine. The locals refer to them as “Pintxo Hunters”. For San Sebastián, pintxos are a culture in and of themselves. Pintxos are served differently depending on where you are. You can order them from a server and they will be brought to you on a plate, you can grab a plate and serve yourself from the bar, or you can order off of a menu at the bar and the bartender will serve you. We found that the better quality pintxo places operate in the latter method, so let’s focus on that for a minute.
The trick at the more modern, gastronomy focused bars is to order from the chalkboard menu. That’s where you’ll (mostly) find the hot pintxos. That menu is going to offer pintxos with the freshest ingredients and those that are the specialty of that particular bar. Most of the time, you are not going to understand what is listed on the menu. If you’re adventurous, just order a few things. If not, ask! The cold pintxos are usually visible on the bar, so if all else fails, just point.
Once you order your pintxos, order your drink to go with it. Typically this would be one of the local wines (more on wines in a bit).
The wine will come to you in a smaller pour. Why? You’re not meant to stay long. The whole point of Pintxo hunting is to “bar hop”. They want you to try a few of their delicious offerings and then move on to the next bar, so the next wave of hunters and locals can come in.
Pintxos and Crianza
You’ll notice two things right off the bat: (1) the bars are crowded; and (2) napkins. Napkins on the floor. Everywhere. It is completely acceptable and expected that you just toss your napkin on the ground. In fact, some say that’s a sign of a good pintxo bar! Many of the pintxo bars operate on the “honor system”. So, you order your pintxos and wine, enjoy them and when you are ready to continue on with your hunt, you remind the bartender of what you had and settle up with him/her on your way out.
There are tons of pintxo bars in San Sebastián, but the best ones seem to be spread out in old town. They are not all created equal, so do a little bit of research, ask the locals and use Yelp. Yep- we found some great places by using Yelp.
Zeruko is one of the top pintxo bars and was a favorite of ours.
Just go out and explore! Our night of pintxo hunting through San Sebastián in the rain is one of my favorite memories.
Let’s talk about wines. Understanding and ordering a Rioja wine is fairly simple. These beautiful old world wines are highly regulated by the Spanish government as to how they are labelled. You have four choices: a young wine, a crianza, a reserve and gran reserva. If that isn’t simple enough, they have a color coded label on the back of each bottle that lets you know which one it is. These terms also apply to white wines. However, since we only had the reds and an occasional rosado, we’ll stick to those in this post.
Young- A young wine is exactly what you think it is: young. These wines will spend less than a year in the barrel
Crianza- In order for a wine to be labeled a crianza, it has to spend at least one year in an oak barrel and at least one year stored in the bottle after that. This was our “go to” for the majority of the time. It’s quite delicious and will run you 3-4 euros in the pintxo bars.
Reserva- A reserva has to be stored for three years with at least one of those years in oak.
Gran Reserva- A gran reserva is required to be aged for at least five years.
Although we said we won’t be getting into whites this post, we wanted to tell you about the Txacoli. Often, particularly in the pintxo bars, you’ll see a white wine poured from a green bottle from a high level. We did not try it, but it is a young white wine that has a low alcohol percentage and is usually pretty dry.
Rioja wine storage in bottles and color coded labeling.
Here’s a graph, from the court of Master Somelier’s, that shows requirements for reds and whites:
Dining in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is home to 16 Michelin stars. It is culinary heaven. But, even restaurants without that famed star are fantastic. I’ll say it again: The Basque are serious about their food and wine. We had a chance to dine at 4 (mostly) fantastic restaurants that the amazing concierge team at the Hotel Maria Cristina organized for us. Here are our experiences at each one:
Our first night in San Sebastián we got in a bit late, so we dropped our bags in our hotel room, freshened up and hopped into a cab for our first San Sebastián dinner.
We were about 15 minutes late for our reservation at Saltxipi and the servers made it quite clear that they were not thrilled with us showing up so close to closing time. Fortunately, our main server ended up being the owner, Gorka, and he was much more pleasant. We sat outside on their beautiful patio. We had the spider crab, which is their specialty, a beautiful bottle of wine and, upon Gorka’s recommendation, I had the monkfish. It was all absolutely delicious and I would go back in a heartbeat. After dinner, Gorka called us a cab and stood outside and chatted with us while we waited.
Our second night was my favorite dinner of the entire trip. It’s a bit of a drive from San Sebastián, but Michelin starred Zuberoa is well worth it.
The atmosphere is beautiful, upscale but unpretentious dining, set in a 650 year old farmhouse. The restaurant has been there for 65 years and the chef has been there for 45 years. The service was exceptional and the food was outstanding. We started with the lobster ravioli. For entrees, Eddie had the roasted duck and I had the hake with clams. It was all fantastic! They will tell you that their cheesecake is unlike any other you have had and they are right! Cheesecake is not something I would typically order, but it was the best cheesecake I have ever eaten. The food was amazing and we felt so comfortable and welcome, we closed the place down while sampling some of their bourbons.
On our third night we went down to the fishing village of Getaria to the family owned Elkano, which was just recently awarded a Michelin star. We researched Elkano before dining there and much of what we read suggested letting the owner choose your entire meal. So, that’s what we did. He suggested the turbot, which they are known for, and a beautiful bottle of white wine to pair with it. The turbot came out as a whole fish for us to share. The owner prepares it for you at your table, and explains each part of the fish to you and the tastiest parts. It was a really nice experience and the fish was amazing. Just a simple, perfectly grilled fish. Between the fantastic service and delicious food, Elkano was another favorite.
Our 4th and final dinner was at Rekondo. The location and setting are absolutely beautiful. We were able to sit outside under the big beautiful tree that dominates their patio. One person comes to take everyone’s order and it took about 20 minutes for that person to get to us. However, the food came out fairly quickly after that. Eddie ordered the suckling pig and I ordered rice and clams, which is a local specialty and a popular dish to order here. They were good, but this was our last of five nights of incredible dining, so our meal here had a lot to live up to. Once we wrapped up dinner, it took well over 20 minutes to get our check. We had to ask for our check twice during that time period and asked for a cab to be called both of those times. Before dining here, we were told we should ask to see their wine cellar as it is supposed to be one of the best in the world.
Rekondo’s wine “list”.
It took so long for everything else that we didn’t bother. Overall, there are way too many amazing dining options in San Sebastián to settle for bad service and expensive, average food.
That wraps up our incredible food and wine experience in San Sebastián. Just a couple of additional notes:
We were blown away by San Sebastián. It is not only a food and wine lover’s destination. It is a beach, mountains, culture, history lover’s destination. You can find more San Sebastián images in the Basque Country and Barcelona photo album!
We highly recommend contacting Basque Tours. We did two tours with them and wish we would have done more. They are professional, personable, knowledgeable and offer a lot of great tours to chose from. We would go as far to say that they are the best tour guides we have ever used.
Summer is the best time to visit.
The Basque language is nothing like Spanish. Nothing.
The Basque people know Spanish, but would much prefer to speak to you in English.
Brush up on your knowledge of Basque history; it’s really fascinating.
As always, please comment or inbox me with questions or comments on your own experiences!
I feel the need to preface this by saying that we are not wine experts. We are not able to identify a wine’s region and vintage simply by swirling and sniffing it. We have not yet mastered the ability to pick up notes of boysenberry and eucalyptus with aromas of crushed rock and leather that finishes with urban snowflake. We usually use less sophisticated descriptions like: big, jammy, buttery or oaky. For pinots, you’ll often hear me say “oh, that’s very Pinot-y” and only my husband understands what that means. All of that being said, we love wine. A lot. We also love Napa Valley. A lot.
Over the past eleven years we have visited Napa Valley at least once, if not two or three times, every year. It is an area that we have truly fallen in love with. The wines are the primary draw for us, but we also love the food, the landscape and the pace of life. Having visited during every season, we have also realized that we love Napa in the winter. Being from Southern California, where it can be 70 degrees in January, we find that we can experience a manageable winter in Napa.
Winters in Napa = hygge
The Danish have a beautiful concept called hygge (hooga). Loosely translated, it means “coziness”. It is the lack of everyday annoyances and the beauty of lingering over simple things that bring us pleasure. Napa Valley winters are my Hygge. It’s chilly, but you’re never far from a nice warm fireplace, hot delicious food and a big, bold glass of a Napa Valley red. I love the morning fog that blankets the hilltops, the chill in the air, the bare vines and the bright green valley floor. And what I really love: it is an area that is very dog friendly.
Bare Winter Vines
The more we visit Napa, the more we seek out unique wineries and tastings. Our last visit was full of these experiences and that is what we are sharing here: Off the beaten path wineries and tasting experiences. These are tastings at boutique, small production wineries. I’ll tell you a bit about the winery, what we tasted, the price per tasting and a few other details. Because we travelled with our dog, Lincoln, I have also included a paw print to denote which tasting rooms are dog friendly.
So, in no particular order, here are our top, off the beaten path favorites from our most recent trip to Napa Valley:
[dropcap]Falia[/dropcap]
A few weeks before our trip to Napa, we attended a dinner party with some friends and one of them brought a delicious Pinot Noir from Failla. We enjoyed it so much, we set up an appointment to taste there.
Failla (photo courtesy of Failla Wines)
Failla has three different tastings you can choose from: The Lodge Tasting, Cave Tasting or Spotlight Tour. We reserved the Lodge Tasting where we sat down with six other visitors and our Failla host. Failla is known for their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs (two of my favorites!). We started with a Chardonnay and followed that with three Pinots. All of them were lovely. After “revisiting” the Chardonnay, our host offered a pour of one of their reserve Chardonnays, which ended up being one of the best Chardonnays I have ever had. Overall, this was a comfortable tasting, with a knowledgeable host and some really great wines.
Tasting at Merus is a true “off the beaten path” experience that is reserved for their wine club members or “serious enthusiasts” who have been referred. That being said, just give them a call; I’m sure they’d love to have you. The winery has taken over the old Rossini Ghost Winery that was originally founded in 1891 and abandoned during prohibition.
Barn at Merus
The wine itself has developed quite a cult following. The tasting begins with your host greeting you, with a chardonnay in hand, on a bridge over a flowing stream. From there, it moves into their wine cave and ends in a gorgeous, renovated tasting room above the original barn with a tasting of four different Cabernet vintages that includes their other label: Altvs. All were fantastic. The irony in this “off the beaten path” experience is that Merus is part of the expansive Foley Wines portfolio (think Firestone and Chalk Hill). Both the experience and the wines are top notch here and we highly recommend it.
**Update:
After raving about Merus here and raving about it to friends, we returned to Merus with fellow oenophile friends and we left disappointed… and embarrassed. We had a different host this time and a completely different experience. When I asked this host, who was surly and arrogant from the beginning, to share the history of the winery with our friends he told us he was more of a wine guy than a history guy. Yet, his wine knowledge was no better than ours. When we asked if we could taste the wine that we bought a case of the last time we were in, he told us the only open bottle of it was downstairs with his co-worker… and left it at that. It was one of the worst experiences we have had in our many years of visiting Napa. The only reason I am not taking it off this list is because our first experience was so amazing and I am hoping this was just a random encounter.
Merus’ beautiful wine caveFinishing up in the tasting room at Merus
Oh, how we love James Cole. We discovered James Cole in 2008, when another tasting room recommended them and their Malbec, which at the time, was the only Malbec in the valley. Not only did we love their wines (especially the Malbec) but we loved the laid back, rock and roll vibe of their tasting room. We joined their wine club and, because they offer some variety in their wines, it is the only wine club that we have stayed with for an extended period of time.
Located right off of the Silverado trail, it’s not technically off the beaten path. However, it is a very small production, family owned winery.
James Cole tasting room nestled behind the vines
There are certainly some Napa Valley tasting rooms that feel a bit “snooty” when you walk in, but you won’t get that feeling here. The tasting room is small and cozy, and your hosts are warm and welcoming.
Behind the tasting counter is the barrel room. The barrel room has, you guessed it, barrels. But, you’ll also find a Rolling Stones pinball machine in the corner, a couple of vintage Harley’s parked in front of some barrels and a 59 Corvette that sits perfectly lit, under a skylight, as if it’s vying to be the star of the show. It’s not your average tasting room.
Isn’t she lovely
Their wines are always fantastic. We had a Chardonnay, a red blend, a Petit Verdot and a Cabernet Sauvignon. We didn’t get to stay long, which is a bummer because I always enjoy lingering around there (especially when their Christmas decorations are up). But, I know we’ll be back soon.
James Cole is a longtime favorite of ours that we always recommend to folks visiting Napa.
Fee: $30 for signature tasting $50 for private tasting
Duration: 45 minutes to 1 hour
– Say hi to Suki and June!
What we took home:
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (one of my favorites)
[dropcap]T-Vine[/dropcap]
This was our second visit to T-Vine. The first time we did a standard tasting at the counter and this time we did their “Food and Wine Experience”. We were fortunate enough to enjoy the small bites experience, but they have recently changed the food portion of this to a nice cheese and charcuterie tasting. What we had was fantastic, but I have a feeling this is a great experience, too.
T-Vine
We enjoyed six small bites, each paired with a T-Vine red. Tasting this way was a great opportunity to see how much food really changes and, if paired correctly, really compliments a good wine.
Fantastic Pairing
We were just as impressed with the wines this time as we were the first time we came in. The tasting room is simple and comfortable. Aside from the wines, one of my favorite things about visiting T-Vine is the focus they put on their growers. You’ll get a little background on the grower of the wine you’re tasting as well as where it’s grown. If you look on the wall behind the dining table, you’ll see some really fantastic photos of the growers that gives you even more of a sense of where your wine came from and the personality behind it. If you want to do your homework before you visit, you can find some of these photos and stories on T-Vine’s website.
Tasting: Reservations required for parties of seven or more and for “The Food and Wine Experience”
Fee: $30 for standard tasting $45 for “Food and Wine Experience’.
Duration: 45 minutes for standard tasting. 1 hour 15 minutes for food and wine pairing.
What we took home:
2011 Cabernet Sauvignon from Doc Gold’s Vineyard
[dropcap]Tank Garage Winery[/dropcap]
Right down the road from T-Vine, set in a renovated gas station and mechanic shop, Tank Garage Winery shakes things up with their tasting room and their wines. The façade stays true to its 1930’s roots, complete with two antique gas pumps in the front. There is a garage door in the front of the building that is opened up on nicer days. The tasting room itself is accented with a pinball machine, an old Indian motorcycle and guitars made from gasoline cans (available for purchase). The 1930’s era weaves its way through the building, all the way to the back room, where you can find a velvety speakeasy that is mostly reserved for private parties. The first time we visited, we had the tasting room to ourselves. When we visited this time, it was hoppin. The building is a visual treat that could keep you occupied for a good while itself. So, grab your first tasting and start exploring.
Lincoln loves Tank
Start in their unique shop where the standard coasters and candles are replaced with harmonicas and fun T-shirts.
Tank’s wine bottles come wrapped in some unique and interesting labels, designed by Lindsay Biggar, that draw you right in and make you even more curious about what’s inside.
The winemaking mantra shakes things up, too. Almost every wine they produce is a varietal and they are blended for flavor, not for rules. They don’t make the same wine twice and they don’t distribute outside of their wine club. So, when it’s gone, it’s gone.
We joined their wine club on our first visit and have learned a trick with these wines; you have to let them breath. At least for the reds. We will open one up the night before we want to drink it, set it aside, and it is perfect the next evening.
We enjoyed a tasting and the two stand outs were the Unspoken, a sparkling white, and the Into Battle red.
Tank is a must for the wines, the aesthetics and the fun!
Tasting: Reservation required for parties of seven or more.
Fee: $20
Duration: 45 minutes to an hour. Give yourself a few minutes to walk around and explore the space with your yummy wine in hand.
What we took home:
Unspoken
Super cool Cali tee from their shop
[dropcap]Phifer Pavitt[/dropcap]
Ever wondered what it would be like to enjoy some delicious wine in the middle of a Resotration Hardware or Pottery Barn set? Me neither, but that’s exactly what you get at Phifer Pavitt.
The tasting room is on the second floor of an old barn. When you enter, you are walking into a beautiful, light filled area with a rustic – chic (yes, it’s a thing) motif. Much of the material used in decorating the tasting room is repurposed material and it is so interesting and creative. We sat on a burlap covered bale of hay and cozied up to a beautiful wooden table, where we enjoyed our tasting paired with some cheeses.
Phifer Pavitt only makes two wines: Date Night Sauvignon Blanc and Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon. Why are they called “Date Night”? Find out why and how their wines and winery came about here: http://www.phiferpavittwine.com/Our-Story
Lucky for us (and you), Phifer Pavitt shares a tasting room with Switchback Ridge, so we were also able to taste some of their wines.
Our host, Luke, was fantastic. He was very hospitable and knowledgeable. This is a private tasting and, other than the couple who was wrapping up their tasting as we began ours, we had the place to ourselves. Rumor has it that, if you book far enough ahead, you can enjoy your tasting with owner, Suzanne Phifer Pavitt.
Established in1895, Larkmead is one of the oldest, family-owned grape-growing estates in the Napa Valley. We tasted here with friends at the end of last year and joined their wine club on the spot. We have now tasted twice there- once in the larger, open room with 180-degree views of the vineyards and once, on a cold day, in a smaller room with a warm fireplace.
Both times we had lovely tours of the vineyard and property. They are a small production winery that primarily focuses on reds, but their one white,”Lilly”, is not to be overlooked. Every wine we have tasted at Larkmead is phenomenal. The tasting room and the property are so beautiful and welcoming, it’s a place you could spend all day.
We’ve been return visitors to the Harvest Inn by Charlie Palmer for over a decade. The first time we stayed there was the night we got engaged and it was perfection. After getting engaged in the morning and tasting in the afternoon, we ordered a pizza, turned on the Chris Botti C.D. that was in the room and sat in front of our own fireplace with a Napa Valley Cab. It is undoubtedly special to us. We’ve returned over the years because we continue to have wonderful experiences there. We have brought friends who have also returned multiple times. And clearly, we are not the only Harvest Inn by Charlie Palmer fans, as they were voted the number 3 hotel in Northern California in the Conde Nast Traveler’s 2016 Reader’s Choice Awards.
The property seems more like a small village, comprised of four neighborhoods enveloped in redwood trees and connected by brick arch bridges. With spacious rooms (some with large fireplaces) and nooks for lounging all over the property, this place embodies the Hygge feeling that I love about Napa. The Harvest Inn has been around for a while, but was acquired by the Charlie Palmer group a few years ago. Since then, there have been some lovely updates to the hotel keeping in mind the original structure, as to not upset the many devotees who return year after year. One of those updates is the addition of the Vineyard View Collection Rooms. Each of the three types of rooms in this collection offer more privacy, panoramic views of the vineyards, a terrace to enjoy those views and a classic brick fireplace.
All rooms at the Harvest Inn by Charlie Palmer are spacious and are equipped with a complimentary bottle of wine, a Kurig (hallelujah!), the comfiest of beds and plush bath robes. There is also a complimentary house car that we used for the first time on our most recent stay, which was so nice for dinner drop-off and pick-up. And, on Mondays, complimentary wine tastings on property!
The best part about Harvest Inn by Charlie Palmer: the people who ensure your stay is special enough that you return.
Tip: Book ahead. This is a loved and sought-after property!
A few things to add about wine tasting in Napa Valley: often times, your tasting fee is waived if you purchase a couple of bottles, so that is something to inquire about when you’re there.
This is a pretty solid list and, if you want to try them all, you’ll need a few days to do so. I also recommend sharing tastings on days where you’ll be visiting several wineries.
These wineries, and their wines, are meant to be enjoyed over a little bit of time as opposed to being crammed in like some of the larger, busier wineries. That being said, visiting these spots will give you a unique and diverse wine tasting experience in Napa Valley. Enjoy!
We’ll continue to provide updates each time we are lucky enough to visit Napa.
I am happy to answer any questions, so feel free to leave them in the comments or send me a message.
Photo courtesy of OneFortyEight Hotel
Photo Courtesy of Nomad Tanzania
Photo courtesy of Heritage-Line
Photo courtesy of Grasshopper Adventures
