Category: Southeast Asia

We ended our Southeast Asia expedition with what we had planned our entire trip around: a cycling adventure through Cambodia with Grasshopper Adventures.

This was not my first time exploring by bike. A few years ago, I rode up and down the French Alps while chasing the Tour de France. It was epic and I learned then and there that this is an outstanding way to explore an area. For one, you have a guide. Not only is this great for navigation and safety, but it’s great to have someone share information on the area and answer all your questions. For two, you cover a lot of ground while still being open to your surroundings and you can discover areas you may not otherwise see. For three, riding bikes is fun!

We initially signed up for Grasshopper’s West Tonle Sap tour, which offers three days of cycling through Cambodia’s countryside. This tour starts in Siem Reap, so we decided to add on the Angkor Wat Sunrise Discovery day tour the day before our multi-day tour departed. I am so glad we did!

Angkor Sunrise Discovery

The Angkor Temple Complex is massive. Like over 400 acres massive. Visitors could take days to get through it if using a self-guided strategy. That being said, not using a local, professional guide would be doing yourself a major disservice. And, touring by bike allows you to explore more in a shorter period of time, takes you to areas you wouldn’t normally see and adds the element of fun. Don’t just take it from me. TripAdvisor recently suggested that a bike tour is the best way to see Angkor Wat.

Our Grasshopper guide (Chin) picked us up at zero dark thirty; pre-dawn early; really early. We picked up a few more people, purchased our passes for the complex and went straight to Chin’s special viewing spot. We were some of the first people there. Others trickled in, but we had plenty of room. As we waited for that first hint of light, I felt my tummy rumble and, as if on cue, Chin came around with pastries for everyone.

We could see the back of the temple start to light up and saw the sky change from purple to pink to orange as the sun rose. It was a magnificent introduction to Angkor and I was in love already.

After marveling at the temple from afar, we crossed the bridge to the entrance. The funny thing is, as we were entering the complex, everyone else was leaving, so we had this big beautiful temple all to ourselves. Chin guided us through and gave us a nice historical overview of the wat and Cambodia’s rich and, at times, stormy history. By the way, Angkor means “city” and a wat is a temple. So, Angkor Wat translates to “City of Temple”.

From there, we walked just outside of the temple wall and over to a pavilion where a full breakfast spread of eggs, cereal, fruit and COFFEE was waiting for us.

After breakfast we got our bikes sorted and we were off!

We travelled along back roads and trails, weaving in and out of those must-see temples, like Ta Prom and Bayon, and other, lesser known, temples and ruins that we had all to ourselves.

It was amazing to ride along rivers on quiet jungle trails and then pop out at a massive, bustling temple. Chin was a wealth of knowledge and had all the answers…and the jokes.

A couple of hours in we stopped for cold water and snacks that a Grasshopper support van had ready for us upon arrival. Fueled and hydrated, we were off for more exploring!

After a full afternoon of riding bikes, exploring temples, marveling at massive coiling tree roots enveloping ancient ruins, making new friends and enjoying Chin’s jokes, we all sat down for a delicious lunch and a cold beer to end the day.

West Tonle Sap Day 1

The next morning we were picked up from our hotel and taken to Grasshopper’s offices where we joined the rest of the group, were briefed on how the next three days would unfold and were fitted on our beautiful bikes.

We loaded into the vans and drove a few hours into the countryside where we stopped for local snacks at a roadside food stand. I opted for nicely seasoned cricket, while Marisa had cricket with a side of rat.

Soon after, we enjoyed a “real” lunch that was served family style and with consideration to the vegetarians in our group. Heang, our guide, selected some local favorites, which made it so easy.

Battambang

We checked into our hotel and had some time to settle in and rest before an afternoon of exploring the town of Battambang. This first afternoon of riding we stayed on main roads as our guides led the way.

Once we got a tour of the town, we rode out to where the locals go to ride their bikes and motorcycles on what was formerly an airport runway. Once we got there, we had a beautiful snack spread waiting for us and cold water to refill our bottles.

To back up a bit, before leaving on this trip, my cyclist and triathlete friends had a lot of question regarding food on this trip: “Will you need to carry food with you? Will there be water? Is there support…with food? What will you eat?” We were WELL fed, folks. Every time we stopped, we had a spread waiting for us. It always included fresh fruit and anything else you would want on a bike ride. I have no doubt that I ate my body weight in mango and coconut cookies.

Okay, back to day one! After cruising around the airport, we loaded up our bikes and drove out to the famous bamboo train. The bamboo train is a single rail track that locals use for transportation and tourists use for the experience. And, it’s quite the experience.

Technically, this isn’t a train. The “cars”, called norries, are not connected to each other. And, your norry is assembled as you wait. Seriously. Your operator tosses a bamboo platform onto two sets of wheels and off you go. Oh, and two-way traffic travels on this one rail system, so if another norry is coming towards you, someone has to disassemble their norry and remove it from the track. Once the oncoming traffic has passed, the waiting norry is reassembled, placed back on the track and back in business.

That night, we went out for a delicious dinner and got to know the rest of our group a bit more.

Day 2: Village Life

The next morning we got off to an early start and explored the villages of Battambang. We had our Grasshopper guides and were joined by two more local guides, which I thought was brilliant.

Riding through the villages, as locals were getting their day started, and being able to take in the sights, sounds and smells, made me feel, in a small way, a part of life here.

Our first stop was a rice paper maker’s traditional stilted home.

So much labor goes into these handmade staples.

From there, we hopped on our bikes and cruised down the smooth, palm tree lined, dirt roads to try out some locally made rice wine. It was before 10 a.m., but that’s okay. We were being cultural.

We continued checking out the rest of Battambang including the fish paste factory and the Ta Dumbong statue (Battambang’s namesake), which is a roundabout in the middle of town.

We stopped at a home for a classic Grasshopper snack spread and fresh coconut! Shortly thereafter we stopped on the side of the road to try a classic local snack of sticky rice cooked in bamboo. See what I mean about being well fed?

After a full morning, we returned to the hotel with time to shower and pack up before lunch in town and then a drive to the town of Kampong Chhnang where we would visit a floating village.

Floating Village

The homes, floating on the Tonle Sap lake, were lined up like any other neighborhood, many with lovely gardens on the sides and fronts.

The residents are primarily Vietnamese families whose livelihood comes from the water. It was spectacularly beautiful to row through on a boat at sunset.

We stayed in the town of Kampong Chhnang that evening and woke early the next day to explore the villages, which included a stop at the home of the most delightful pottery maker.

It was remarkable to see the labor and detail that went into each one of these handmade pieces.

From there, we drove to Cambodia’s former capital, Oudong, where we visited a beautiful mountain top temple and then had a snack (of course) before riding through the villages to Phnom Penh.

The Road to Phnom Penh

This was my favorite day of riding. We road down all back roads through villages and, again, I felt a little closer to the culture. Almost the entire way, the kids would stop what they were doing and yell “helllooooo”, holding out the “O” for as long as they could. We passed tuk-tuks, temples and quite a few cows.

It was just so lovely. I think I had a smile planted on my face the entire day. We had lunch at a temple, which is where we and three other women (also on a “girl’s trip”) separated from the group (who would be riding for a few more days)  and continued the beautiful ride to Phnom Penh.

Upon finishing the day and the tour, one of our guides disappeared for a few minutes and returned with cold beers for everyone. Finishing was a rewarding feeling, although bittersweet, as it was time to say goodbye.

What I loved about this trip was the in-between. Getting into some of those smaller towns, which allowed us to, culturally, get below the surface of what you would get by staying in the bigger cities. As I look back through the photos from this trip, I am in awe of what an authentic experience we had because of it. I walked away with a better understanding of Cambodia, some new friends and phenomenal memories.

When, Is Now

If you are someone who has been considering a cycling tour, but feeling overwhelmed by the prospect of planning and questions that arise, I am talking to you: Do it. It’s a whole other level type of travel experience.

We did a lot of research to find a reputable company, so you don’t have to. And Grasshopper makes the planning easy. In case you missed it, here is my pre-departure interview with them that will give you a detailed background on how and where they operate. Several people in our group were return Grasshopper riders. I plan on adding to my Grasshopper jersey collection, as well.

What we learned post-departure is that, not only were our guides knowledgeable, but keeping us safe and satisfied was imperative to them. There was always a guide in the front and one in the back. They acted as traffic control on the rare occasions that we crossed a busy street. We always had cold water and electrolytes available and were always checked on: did we get a good night’s sleep, enough to eat, put on sunscreen, have our guide and hotel’s contact info on us? Is our bike fit okay? Are we feeling okay? All we had to do is ride our bikes and enjoy all that Cambodia had to offer.

Are you ready to ride? If you have questions, I am happy to answer them! Comment below or send me a message.

Grasshopper Adventures operates in fifteen countries and offers a wide range of cycling adventures. Have a looksy here!

• Love to ride, but your travel companion doesn’t? Grasshopper now offers this epic tour that will make you both happy!
• In terms of riding ability, for the Angkor Sunrise Discovery tour, you really just need to know how to ride a bike. Practice your handling skills a bit, as you are riding on dirt. For the West Tonle Sap tour, the cycling skills of our group members ran the gamut. We had young to mature and avid to beginner cyclists. The ride itself is not challenging, but you should do some riding before-hand to make sure you are prepared for the distance and your sit bones are prepared for multiple days of riding.
• There is ALWAYS a support van available.
• If you have dietary restrictions, let Grasshopper know at the time of booking. They will accommodate you.
• Leave some time to explore Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Add a Grasshopper day tour!
• You will need to have your shoulders and knees covered when entering temples. More on what to pack below.
• The bikes for both tours had pouches on the front that could hold any necessities.

 

“Junk” Boat?

I’ll admit it: I was completely thrown off when I read the words “luxury” and “junk” to describe our Halong Bay lodging, but I was ready to find out what this “Junk Boat” experience was all about! What I learned is that “junk” comes from the Javanese word djong and translates to “ship” or “large vessel,” and isn’t remotely similar to our English interpretation of something that holds no value. I also learned that Halong Bay is a prime spot to cruise on a Junk Boat. It is the best way to fully experience this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

My friend Marisa was eager to visit Halong Bay and I was more hesitant because of the time of year. We were visiting in January, which is when Northern Vietnam experiences a mild winter. Marisa checked with her friends who had Halong Bay cruising experience and there was one boat that was mentioned multiple times. So, we booked it. We were set to sail on Heritage-Line’s five-star junk boat: Violet.

Our transport picked us in Hanoi for our scenic three-hour drive to Halong Bay. Once we arrived, we were taken to a lounge area and presented some warm tea and a menu that offered light snacks and additional drinks. Soon after we arrived, we were greeted by Sammy, our “Cruise Director,” which meant he was our go-to person if we needed anything.

Exclusive Violet

We waited in the comfortable lounge for a few more guests to arrive. Once we boarded the boat, we gathered in the dining area for a brief introduction followed by safety information, an overview of the boat and our itinerary while we were aboard. We were given a tour of our rooms and began cruising.

There are several things that make Violet unique and give her the stellar reputation that she has, but her biggest attribute is that she has only six suites. With a maximum of twelve guests at any time, this provides for an exclusive experience. To add to that exclusivity, there is at least one staff member per room, so you are well catered to.

The ship was built in 2007, but is a beautiful replica of a luxury junk boat of the 1930s, built primarily of wood and adorned with brushed bronzed finishes and luxurious textiles. One of the striking things about Violet is how such a small ship can offer so much with large suites, a comfortable dining room with a bar, a library, an expansive deck and even a massage room and gym.

Marisa and I were in one of two rooms with twin beds. We were on the lower level near the front of the boat. Our room had an outdoor deck, floor to ceiling windows and a full bathroom with a soaking tub.

I loved the added details like the armoire and the vanity.

It was incredible to watch Halong Bay’s massive limestone karsts pass by through those floor to ceiling windows.

Exploring Halong Bay

When most of us think of cruising, we think of just hanging out on a boat and basic buffet meals, all intended to appease the masses. On Violet, you have an action-packed itinerary that allows you to really experience Halong Bay’s natural beauty and cultural history. Once we settled into our rooms, we had just enough time to enjoy a delicious Vietnamese lunch before exploring Halong Bay’s unique offerings.

Once Violet anchors, a smaller boat, called a tender, pulls up for guests to easily board and be transferred to our destination. Our first stop was one of the many caves of Halong Bay. Tien Ong cave is quite large and we practically had it to ourselves. Sammy guided us through the cave and shared the natural history of how these caves were formed as well as the local legend. The most fascinating features of the cave were the icicle-like stalactites hanging from the ceiling and the stalagmites coming up from the ground.

The caves aren’t just for tourists to marvel at, they also provide protection for residents of the nearby floating village when large storms come through.

From the cave, our group took the tender to a floating village that is hundreds of years old, but unfortunately one of many shrinking fishing communities. We were given two options to explore the village: we could explore in our own kayak or we could explore in a larger bamboo boat rowedby a local. We were ready to move our bodies and wanted to have a little more control over where we went, so we opted for the kayak.

We loved exploring this way.

The village is in the center of huge limestone karsts, which offer protection from fierce winds and other unwanted weather.

We returned to Violet for a little bit of down time and were eventually joined by the others who were on the boat for two nights and had been exploring other areas.

At sunset, I went to the top deck and was mesmerized as mist floated around the limestone pillars and the boats, with their gold twinkling lights, anchored in front of them for the evening. The thought struck me—there is nowhere else in the world that I could see what was before me.

Before dinner, the chef came out to teach us how to make delicious Vietnamese spring rolls and then gave each person the opportunity to make their own. With such a small group, this was a fun time to get to know the other guests and have a good laugh at everyone’s “spring roll skills”.

We had a fantastic Vietnamese dinner, with fresh, local ingredients. I ordered a soup that came with a lot of accoutrements, so Sammy (thankfully) came over to show me how to make it perfect.

While some of the other guests stayed up chatting, Marisa and I were exhausted and hit the sack early. After a fantastic night’s sleep, we were up early the next morning. We woke to pastries, coffee and tea to be enjoyed before the Tai Chi lesson on the deck.  After some time to get changed, we were off to our next adventure, a beautiful hike on Ti Top Island.

When I say “hike” it is more of a climb up 400+ stairs that leads to a spectacular view of the bay.

After the hike, we had the option to go for a swim at the beach before returning to the boat for our cruise home.

As we cruised back to the dock, we had time to pack up, have breakfast and say goodbye to our fellow cruisers.

Cruising Halong Bay is such a unique experience and cruising with Heritage-Line is the only way to go. Opt for the exclusivity and luxury that Violet has to offer and you won’t be disappointed.

Find out more about Violet and Heritage-Line’s other luxury boats here.

A special thanks to Marisa for modeling and sharing her own photos for this post.

• If Violet seems a bit too small for you, check out Jasmine, Heritage-Line’s second boat in Halong Bay.
• The junk boat experience is a busy one! You do not have to participate in all of the activities, but I recommend doing so.
• There is no WIFI once on board. You will be okay. I repeat: you will be okay.
• The kayak option at the floating village is an additional $15 per person.
• Read below for some packing recommendations.

When planning our trip through Southeast Asia, we were “open”. We were “flexible”. However, we had one absolute must do: we had to do a cycling tour. In fact, we planned our entire trip through Southeast Asia around  doing a cycling tour. Because, well, what better way to discover an area than from two wheels?

If you remember from my Phase I Itinerary post, I was able to rope in my active, adventurous, travel loving friend, Marisa. And, we like to ride bikes!

It was important to us to find a multi-day tour, put on by a reputable and experienced company, that offered a blend of great riding and enriching cultural experiences. That, is how we found Grasshopper Adventures. And, we are so glad we found them! They have been incredibly helpful in helping us select the best tour for us and have been quick to respond with each and every question we’ve had.

So, after some discussion with the team at Grasshopper, we decided on the “West Tonle Sap” tour, where we will spend three days riding through the villages and countryside of Cambodia. Then, we agreed that three days wasn’t quite enough, so we decided to add on the “Angkor Sunrise Discovery” day tour, where we will watch the sun rise over the awe-inspiring temple and then spend the morning exploring the temple complex by bike. The thought alone of those four days, takes my breath away.

For many, the idea of planning a cycling tour in another country, leaves a lot of questions. Lucky for us, the team at Grasshopper Adventures agreed to an interview with When Is Now. I included some of my own questions, but also asked others, who range from people who get on a bike once a year to people who practically live on their bikes, what they would want to know about participating in a cycling tour abroad. Before we get started, I’d like to point out that the most reoccurring themed question  I received was (drum roll please): FOOD. Folks really want to know about food.

Kelly Willis, the General Manager from Grasshopper Adventures, answers those food questions and many more below.

WIN: Kelly, thank you so much for taking the time to chat with us about your cycling tours! I know you offer some great tours in several countries, but since our tour will be through Cambodia, let’s use that as the country we refer back to.

How long has Grasshopper tours been around and how did it get started?

Grasshopper: The CEO of Grasshopper Adventures, Adam Platt-Hepworth, rediscovered the simple pleasure of cycling in his mid-twenties, commuting by bike to his bank job in Melbourne, Australia. In 2003 he joined a fundraiser ride through southern China where he made a friend who would later found Grasshopper in 2004. Adam, inspired by the dual features of cycling and traveling in Asia, now leads the Grasshopper team. 

WIN: How many countries do you offer tours in?

Grasshopper: We offer tours in 15 different countries. We run both day tours and multi-day tours in Cambodia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Myanmar. We run regular multi-day excursions in Laos, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Bhutan. Finally, we offer unique pioneering tours in Japan, China, Nepal, Mongolia, Uzbekistan, and India.

WIN: Considering all of those countries, on average, how many tours do you operate on a weekly basis?

Grasshopper: This can vary greatly depending on the time of year. During high season we might run more than 150 day tours and 20 multi-day tours in a given week, while during low season we may only operate 50 day tours and a few multi-day tours.

WIN: What nationality would you say the majority of your guests are?

Grasshopper: Our clientele is very international; we love having the opportunity to host riders from all over the world! While many of our guests are Australian, American, British, and Canadian, people also join us from Singapore, New Zealand, Colombia, Germany, India, Belgium, Israel, Malaysia, South Africa, Korea, Italy, the Netherlands, Peru, you name it!

WIN: Do I need a visa to visit Cambodia?

Grasshopper: Yes, most nationalities are required to have a visa to visit Cambodia, but the process could not be easier. You can simply obtain a tourist visa upon arrival at the airport or border for $30; it is valid for 30 days. Bring a passport photo along with you to avoid an extra fee.

WIN: What level rider do I have to be to complete any of your tours?

Grasshopper: We have tours designed for every kind of rider, from relaxing rides for recreational cyclists, to more intense rides for experienced cyclists up for a challenge. We are happy to discuss expectations and preferences prior to booking to determine which tour will be a good fit for each of our guests. Children are also welcome on our tours; we have tours designed specifically for families and can provide children’s seats and tag-along bikes.

WIN: Do I have to maintain a certain pace or does everyone ride at their own pace? What if a rider can’t keep up with the rest of the group?

Grasshopper: We like to allow flexibility for groups to set their own pace; the guide will ensure we’re basically on schedule to see all the sights. If a group prioritizes sticking to their own preferred pace, we do offer to arrange private trips as well. All of our multi-day tours are vehicle supported, so if anyone would like a break from the bikes they are welcome to hop in the air-conditioned support van for a rest.

WIN: What kind of bikes do you provide and do you do any fitting before riding starts?

Grasshopper: In Cambodia we use top quality imported GT mountain bikes fitted with hybrid tires for touring. In all countries we take pride in providing high quality, well-maintained bicycles (GT, Merida, Trek, Giant, etc.) Upon booking we ask for your height and upon arrival we take a few moments to make any necessary adjustments to ensure you are comfortable on your bike.

 

WIN: What else do you provide and what should we bring? i.e. helmet, cycling shoes, gloves.

Grasshopper: We provide helmets and water bottles, though some riders choose to bring their own helmets if they find theirs particularly comfortable. Our bikes come with standard, flat pedals. If you would like, you are welcome to bring your own pedals and we can fit them when you start the tour. You are welcome to bring cycling shoes, though we do not recommend road cycling shoes with protruding cleats – only those with recessed cleats. Many guests bring cycling gloves and shorts for comfort. On our multi day tours, handlebar bags and jersey are also provided. The country jerseys have become quite the collectables for repeat Grasshoppers!

WIN: What are the roads like? How are the surfaces? How is the traffic? Are drivers courteous to cyclists?

Grasshopper: The terrain really varies by country. On the ‘West Tonle Sap: Angkor to Phnom Penh’ tour you’re joining, the road is generally a mix of sealed or hard-packed dirt. At times it can be uneven and bumpy, but perfectly achievable if you are confident with your balance on a bike. You will be on back roads and trails, spending minimum time if any on anything resembling a main road, so there is rarely any traffic at all. Anyway, many guests find that motorists in Southeast Asia are more aware of cyclists than in their home countries. 

WIN: Are snacks, water and other support provided throughout the day or are the riders responsible for their own?

Grasshopper: We provide clean water and an abundance of local snacks and fruits. The sunrise tour in Cambodia includes breakfast and a hearty lunch. Our multi-day tours include meals as indicated on the itinerary. Enjoying a country’s local cuisine is often cited as a highlight of our trips! Our guides love recommending local dishes and sharing that delicious aspect of their culture with our guests.

WIN: How do our belongings get from place to place?

Grasshopper: The support vehicle also functions to transport your luggage from location to location, so you will have access to your belongings throughout the whole trip.

WIN: What kind of weather can we expect?

Grasshopper: You’re traveling during a cooler time of year, January, so you’re avoiding the warmer heat of March-May. This is also during dry season so you should avoid getting wet. You can see more detailed weather information for Cambodia here.

WIN: What should we bring to wear?

Grasshopper: Bring whatever is comfortable for you to wear when cycling, including close-toed shoes. Also keep in mind that you should bring some clothes that cover your knees and shoulders in order to visit some historical and religious sites.

WIN: About how many riders are in your multi-day tours?

Grasshopper: The number of riders usually varies from 2 to 10 people. We like to keep groups small to ensure a personalized intimate experience, while also offering a fun social opportunity.

WIN: What do the evenings look like? Does everyone have dinner together?

Grasshopper: Meals are included on our multi-day tours, so we will all enjoy dinner together at quality, hygienic restaurants. It’s a great chance to chat with your fellow riders as well as your guide who is a priceless resource for historical, cultural, and local knowledge. You are welcome to have input into meals, but our guides choose such great food that you may also choose to simply sit back and enjoy the delicious dishes that are put in front of you.

WIN: We always want to be mindful and respectful of the culture. Could you give us some tips on Cambodian culture?

Grasshopper: This is a great question! Your guide will give you some brief information about this prior to and throughout the tour, but a few tips to keep in mind include:

• A respectful greeting, especially if you are entering someone’s home, is the sompeah: a slight bow with your hands together in front of your chest, fingers pointed up.
• Avoid touching anyone’s head, especially those who are older than you, as this is considered rude.
• According to Buddhist culture, monks cannot touch women, so be sure to give them space when passing by.
• Ask permission (even if in a non-verbal manner) before taking pictures of people. Many people are happy to be the subject of photographs, but it is always polite to ask and this also provides the opportunity for some interaction with the locals.
• We don’t recommend giving money directly to children as this often keeps them out of school and in vulnerable situations.

WIN: Thank you so much for taking the time to tell us more about cycling with you. We are really looking forward to exploring Cambodia by bike with you!

Grasshopper: We are very much looking forward to hosting you on your upcoming adventure! I’m sure you’re going to have an incredible trip and we’re glad that Grasshopper can be a part of it.

As Kelly mentioned, Grasshopper Adventures offers a variety of tours for all riding abilities. Head over to their website and see which one is best for you!

*All photos are courtesy of Grasshopper Adventures