Category: Switzerland

I could sum up my thoughts on the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in five words: she is the proverbial Unicorn. You know, something magical; something so perfect it doesn’t even seem like it’s real? And, I haven’t been able to stop talking about her since visiting.

Pontresina

The Grand Hotel Kronenhof is situated in the charming town of Pontresina, which is located in a valley near the Bernina Mountain Range. We had to pass through a much busier St. Moritz to get there and were pleasantly surprised to arrive in a smaller, quieter and equally beautiful Pontresina. And, although small, Pontresina is quite cosmopolitan with a variety of shops and some very worthy restaurants.

The Grand Dame

We pulled into the deceivingly small front entrance driveway and were taken to reception where we were warmly (and quickly) checked in. As we started our tour of the property, we were greeted and welcomed by the hotel manager.

Pontresina is known for its Bell Époque hotels and Grand Hotel Kronenhof is undoubtedly one of the best. Once we settled into our room, we went out to explore more of the property. On the main floor we found a billiards room, cards room and cigar room, each one designed true to the era and with the wood floors creaking below our feet. As my friend Megan said, “you can just feel the history”.

Along with these small rooms, there were multiple, larger ballrooms and entertainment rooms, all opulent and all with a commanding view of the towering mountains that surrounded us.

On another floor was a historic and beautifully maintained bowling alley.

And, my favorite room: the wine cellar, which I’ll gush over more below.

Following our tour, we were shown to our room which was located in the newest of the three wings. Our room had a long entry hallway that included unobtrusive built in closets the entire way down.

To the left of the hallway was a large, elegant marble bathroom with a separate shower and whirlpool soaking tub. The long hallway opened into a large room with a bed and a spacious sitting area and an outside deck that overlooked the river flowing through giant pine trees.

The entire design was clean, simple and modern with wooden touches that added warmth.

Spa

The Kronenhof spa is hands down the best spa I have ever been to. And at 21,000 square feet, it’s enough to keep you pleasantly occupied for hours on end. As you enter the main area of the spa, the large swimming pool that leads your eyes to the surrounding Alps outside, commands your attention.

In other areas of this floor you will find a water in motion pool, a steam bath, a salt grotto, saunas, a solarium (or the fitness room) and a relaxation room, complete with waterbeds and a fireplace.

All of this is at no additional charge if you are a hotel guest. Non-hotel guests can enjoy the facilities for a daily fee. Once a month they have night spa where the spa is open from 7pm to midnight with a few extra treats. On the floor above the main area is where all the treatment rooms are located. I received a fantastic massage and Megan had a facial.

Dining

The Kronenhof has multiple onsite dining options and can arrange unique dining experiences for you. Unfortunatley, we were too late (we couldn’t leave the spa) to enjoy the award-winning restaurant for dinner, but had the phenomenal breakfast, which included an expansive buffet, champagne and hot items made upon request.

The bar, also located on the main floor, is perfect for a nightcap and is regarded as one of the best Gin Bars in the Alps.

Wine cellar

There’s part of me, a very small part of me, that wants to keep this next part a secret, but that wouldn’t be very nice. On our last morning, the manager suggested that we take a tour down to the wine cellar. I figured they had a really nice wine selection that would be fun to take a look at. I had no idea what was in store for us. The Veltliner wine cellar was established in 1867 and within it are the original wine barrels and other original memorabilia. It is absolutely gorgeous and is also credited for keeping the hotel afloat during the first and second world wars.

The original wine barrels are in the first room upon entering and in the second room is the original lounge area with a bar and seating area lit by well over twenty chandeliers.

Summer Fun

During the warmer months, Pontresina offers beautiful hiking and the concierge was fantastic with helping us find the perfect hike for us.

We walked to the base of our hike and when we finished, we called the hotel and someone was waiting for us by the time we made it to the bottom via the funicular. In addition to hiking during the warmer seasons, the hotel offers e-bikes for guests to use to explore Pontresina and St. Moritz. We took them to a nearby lake where we enjoyed music, homemade blueberry pie and a glass of prosecco, all the while pinching ourselves and asking how this was even real life.

Kids

I don’t travel with kids (I don’t have any other than my English bulldog), so I typically don’t cover that aspect of traveling. However, Grand Hotel Kronenhof’s kid-friendliness is worth mentioning. They offer numerous activities, a kid’s club that I challenge any adult to try to stay out of, and a darling kids formal dining room that is adjacent to the main dining room.

While in the spa, I met a couple who travel to Europe every year and, for the past seven years, they have ended their vacation at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof. Hearing that didn’t surprise me in the least bit. It’s a special place. So special that, of all the places that my husband couldn’t join me on this Round the World trip, this is the place I want to return to with him.

You can find more information on the Grand Hotel Kronenhof here.

• Take some time here. We thoroughly enjoyed our two night stay, but I would recommend four nights minimum.
• Walk around and explore the property. There are surprises everywhere.
• If you are usually a late diner (like me!), plan to have dinner a little earlier. And, make reservations.
• In addition to Grand Hotel Kronenhof’s restaurants, check out Gianottois Wine Bar & Grill just down the road.
• No matter what time of year you visit, don’t forget your swimsuit.

 

 

 

 

 

If you remember from my Phase III Itinerary post, the first week of this phase was a “girl’s trip” through Switzerland with my great friend Megan. You may also remember that we decided to rent a car in lieu of Switzerland’s amazing train system so that we could make the most of our time and stop at some of the many beautiful spots Switzerland has to offer.

Our flight from the U.S. arrived in Geneva and the medieval city of Lucerne was our first destination. We prolonged the sub three-hour drive from Geneva to Lucerne with a stop for lunch in Giessbach and a stop at beautiful Iseltwald, on the southern shore of Lake Brienz.

As we arrived in Lucerne in the early evening, we were welcomed by an epic storm. When we pulled into the driveway of Hotel des Balances, we were swiftly greeted outside, our bags were collected, our car was taken care of and we were escorted to our darling room. Especially with the downpour, we appreciated the ease of getting settled in for our two-night stay.

Room With a View

What our charming room lacked in space was more than made up for in décor and a flawless view. We were instantly drawn to our Juliet balcony that overlooked the river Reuss and the beautiful baroque Lucerne Jesuit Church. As we enjoyed the view, we popped open the champagne that was waiting for us and decompressed on the balcony while taking in those first sights of Lucerne.

Aside from that show stealing balcony, our room had a large comfy bed, a desk and chair, a side table and a leather lounge chair. There was a cabinet to store your clothing and another even more important cabinet that had the Nespresso machine (cue the angels singing). Because, we all need coffee before our coffee.

On the main wall of our room was a huge, beautiful mirror that I loved.

The bathroom appeared to have been recently remodeled with new fixtures, a sleek design, and a lovely starry ceiling, and was stocked with L’Occitane amenities.

The room was so cozy. We slept with the door open and to the sound of the river each night.

Hotel des Balances

The building that is now Hotel des Balances dates back to the 13th century and has operated as a hotel since 1807. Today it is adorned with classical, modern touches while maintaining its rich history. The hotel’s detailed façade is one of the most photographed attractions in Lucerne.

The inside is lined with beautiful wood floors throughout and period paintings and decorations.

The hotel has a stunning event area with chandeliers and a large verandah. Honestly, between the balconies off the rooms and the verandah off the event space, it was hard to leave the hotel. We had the perfect view of the city from there.

Balances Restaurant and Terrace

The bottom floor is home to the beautiful restaurant and bar: Balances. On the evening we arrived, we were researching places for dinner and realized that one of the top-rated restaurants in the city was directly below us. We managed a reservation for a table outside along the river. It was still raining, but we were protected from the rain and were provided blankets. That plus the great food and excellent service made for a wonderful “welcome to Switzerland!” dinner. We enjoyed the local fish and beef and a bottle of Balances’ own Pinot Noir. Everything was perfect. Megan said it was the best steak she’s had in a long time.

The bar offered some unique and tasty cocktails and was hopping every afternoon.

The bar was also where their amazing breakfast buffet was served. In addition to cooked-to-order egg dishes, the buffet offered great local cheeses, smoked fish, pastries, coffee and tea. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day and Balances did not disappoint.

Adjacent to the restaurant terrace is a small lounge area where we enjoyed coffee one morning before breakfast. You can also enjoy a cocktail there in the afternoon. The area is open to non-guests, so even if you don’t stay at Hotel des Balances, stop by to enjoy their lovely restaurant and lounge right on the river. As much as we explored the Old Town, I can tell you there is no better view than from the terrace.

Both the restaurant and hotel staff were always friendly and never intrusive. We went to the front desk several times for recommendations and they were always very helpful.

Location, Location, Location

The town of Lucerne is adorable. We were there in mid-August, which is peak travel time in Europe, but the crowds were manageable compared to those found in other European cities during that time. I don’t think any hotel is more perfectly located than Hotel des Balances. Nestled right in the heart of Altstadt (Old Town), you could walk anywhere.

There are top boutiques and restaurants surrounding the hotel and the lake, the city wall and the funicular to Chateau Gutsch are all less than a ten-minute stroll away. You can spot the hotel from just about anywhere in Old Town. In fact, when I was lost on our drive in, I remembered to look for the hotel’s huge sign that sits at the top of the building.

Lucerne has so much to offer and is a must when you plan your trip to Switzerland. And, when you visit, the accommodations, service and the food at the Hotel des Balances will enhance your overall experience.

You can find out more about Hotel des Balances here.

    

• If driving in, follow the hotel directions and not Google Maps, Waze, etc…
• We stayed two nights, but would recommend three.
• Lucerne is musical year round, but has a wonderful music festival during the summer. Check here for more information.
• There is great shopping near the hotel, so pack light.
• Get a room facing the river.
• Like many hotels in Switzerland, Hotel des Balances does not have air-conditioning. Even in the summer, it cools off enough in the evening where this was not a problem for us.
• Check out all that Lucerne has to offer, but be sure to take a few minutes on Hotel des Balances verandah to relax and soak in the city.