Category: Europe

When I think of Italians, I conjure up images of attractive, well put together people in how they both present and carry themselves; a seemingly effortless style and swagger. It turns out that it’s not effortless. In fact, it is a crucial part of their culture that is engrained from an early age. You most likely will never see an Italian in a store in sweatpants or arguing loudly in public. This is the behavior of a “Brutta Figura” (ugly figure). Italians strive for a reputation as a “Bella Figura” (beautiful figure). To be seen as a Bella Figura, it is not just your clothes and how well put together you are, but how you behave; how you speak (to and about people), particularly in public.

Robert, one of our guides from Espressino Travel, told us this early on in our time with him and we were fascinated by it. Myself and one of my friends had been to Italy multiple times and we had never heard of this. Learning how important appearance is to Italians was one of many moments of getting below the surface and going beyond the generic (albeit still beneficial) information you find in a guidebook. These “below the surface” moments are exactly why I am a huge proponent of hiring a guide in some capacity during your travels.

The first time I used a guide during my travels, was just for a few hours. Our guide was a student who walked us through the Vatican. We skipped lines, we asked questions, we learned a lot in a short amount of time. I’ve trekked through the jungles of Laos for three days with a local guide where I had won’t soon forget conversations. Conversations about life, love, politics and religion in our respective countries. And, I’ve had guides for everything in-between an hour, to a few days. Doing so literally changes your entire experience. You are privy to transformative information and moments that take you from being a mere vacationer to becoming a traveler. 

Puglia is still emerging as a travel destination for non-Italians. Italians have kept this beautiful secret to themselves for many years. This was my second trip to Puglia. I barely scratched the surface on the first and knew that I needed to return for more.

With only four days to spend in just a sliver of this region, and it being my friends’ first time to the region (and for two of them, Italy), I wanted to make sure we did all the “important” stuff. I perused TripAdvisor, found top rated Espressino Travel and fortunately, they had three open days before their next tour. If you are not familiar with the Puglia region of Italy, you can find out more here.

The Planning 

Our three days were completely customized for us. Robert from Espressino asked us what types of things we were interested in, paired that with his expertise and the amazing relationships that he and Lili have established, and sent us our itinerary. We went over this multiple times before the trip over email and phone. In no time, we were set!

The All Nighter

After our 20-hour travel day, we landed at 2:00 in the afternoon. Robert swooped us up and immediately caffeinated us. And within that critical caffeination event, significant information was shared on an important Italian subject: Coffee. And not just any coffee, but the coffee that is specific to Puglia: Espressino and caffe in ghiaccio. Thirty minutes in and we had already learned more than we would have on our own. And we did so at a roadside gas station that we never would have even thought of stopping at, but locals rotated in and out of.

When we arrived in darling Lecce, “the Florence of the South”, Robert guided us down the winding alleyways to our Airbnb where we had exactly 15 minutes to drop our bags and freshen up. It was an amazing feat by all, but particularly Robert and his ability to herd the four of us in and out so quickly.

We walked to a nearby cafe and went over our agenda for the next few days over a bottle of champagne. There we awaited the cooking group we were joining for the evening. That’s when a small, but mighty woman appeared with a group: Local celebrity chef Gianna Greco. After a trip to the local market, we arrived at Gianna’s studio, Cooking Experience, where Marco, her sous chef, was prepping for us. 

I am not one of those people who “love” cooking, but this is something my friends wanted to do and really is a must when visiting any part of Italy, but especially the Puglia region. 

Friends, this is where I learned that I actually do enjoy cooking! It is the prepping and clean-up that I do not enjoy. And you don’t have to worry about either here! We just focused on molding tiny ears (orecchiete) around our fingers and kneading the dough and potato for the most delicious focaccia I have ever, ever had.

We prepared our beautiful meal over bottles of rosé and tons of laughs with the rest of the group. Just as soon as we devoured our dinner, the homemade grappa and limoncello came out. It was a long (but not long enough) night. Even after 24 hours of being awake and jet lagged, I rank it as one of my favorite nights.

Herding Cats (Day 2)

On day two, Robert picked up four very hungover gals. He immediately took us to get coffee and a Pasticciotto, a local very sweet treat. We toured Lecce and then lingered over a lunch of traditional Puglian cuisine at Alle due Corti. Later that afternoon, Lili joined us (just when we thought Espressino Travel couldn’t get any better), and we loaded into the van and ventured off to the beautiful coastal town of Otranto.

Robert and Lili gave us a fantastic tour and then let us loose in the shops before enjoying  a quick cocktail on the water and heading to a much anticipated masseria (farm) dinner.

We feasted at Masseria Le Stanzie, but not before touring the property and learning its and the owner’s history.

We visited the olive mill and the cheese cave. Yes, the “cheese cave”. Then, we ventured upstairs for the most epic Italian meal and experience.

Once again, Lili and Robert guided us through all the details (and there are many) of the tradition of the food, how it is prepared, who is preparing it and exactly what to order.

The Best Day Ever

On day three, Robert and Lili, once again, picked up four very hungover gals (this was again at our own doing back at our airbnb) and took us for coffee. But not just any coffee. Coffee in one of the best spots in Lecce where we ordered a variety of specialties. They were expertly prepared with Italian pride and were phenomenal. Coffee is a big deal here and I can guarantee you have not had coffee like this anywhere else.

The afternoon that follows is one of the most memorable afternoons of my entire seven weeks in Europe and one I will cherish for many years to come. It wasn’t a mass in a baroque cathedral, a cycling trip through the vineyards, sailing the Adriatic, or even Mumford and Sons at an Irish castle. It was much simpler than any of those events. It was a pizza making lesson. When Robert suggested this during our initial planning, he explained that this wasn’t “just” a pizza making lesson. Chef Maurizio equated the elements and aspects of making pizza to life and love.

We arrived at Pizza & Co and were warmly greeted with a beautiful smile and a big hug from Maurizio. We prepared and kneaded our dough while we listened to Maurizio (via translation by Lili) explain the importance of the yeast in pizza and the role of patience in making real yeast…the old-fashioned way. As we moved from the yeast to the toppings, we talked about the discourse of tomatoes and how we, the consumer, have been deceived into putting junk tomatoes on pizza (WHAT!?).

These seemingly small details are not so small when you have as much pride and passion in what you create as Maurizio has. He had our undivided attention for the many hours we were there. Well, except for when the cheese delivery guy walked in with fresh burrata and mozzarella that we had to sample.

We each created a different pizza and devoured them. It could have been that the experience as a whole trickled into our taste buds (though I doubt it), but these were the best pizzas I have ever had.

After devouring our pizzas, Maurizio brought us back into the shop and closed the lesson with a poem that had me in tears. One that not only reminded me of my grandmother and her love for travel and exploration (that I am convinced I inherited from her), but it so eloquently outlined my own beliefs about life and the importance of travel that drove me to even start When-Is-Now. It is a beautiful reminder of the importance of the journey. As I listened, it felt as if someone was peering into my soul and put into words all of my jumbled thoughts and feelings. It’s called Ithaca and you can enjoy it here.

This was our official last event with Lili and Robert. However, Robert kindly offered to take us to pick up our rental car that would take us to our next destination. He picked two of us up the next morning, took us to the rental car pick up and then…helped us come up with a plan b, because for reasons that would take up too much space here, we were carless. So, Robert took us to the train station, helped us figure out which train we needed and how to purchase tickets so that we were prepared when we departed the next day. THEN, on the way out of the station, he flagged down a taxi driver and coordinated a time and price for us to be picked up for our beach adventure that afternoon. Not all heroes wear capes.

For three days, we were fully in Robert and Lili’s hands. We had nothing to worry about other than soaking in this beautiful region, its food and its people. It was phenomenal. There is no way we could have had the enriching experiences we did without Robert and Lili. Go to Puglia and have Espressino Travel show you around their second home that they love so dearly.

You can learn more about Espressino Travel here.

You can watch some of our tour highlights here.

• Espressino has just released their 2020 tour dates!
• If those dates don’t work for you, or if you are looking for something more private (like our tour!), they do offer custom multi and single day tours.
• We used Espressino in Lecce and nearby areas, however they do offer tours in other locations.
• As wordy as this may be, I am hardly giving you the full report. It would be impossible for me to cover each and every special moment…and trust me these three days were packed with intangible, unforgettable moments. And all of this is, of course is because of Puglia, but it is just as much because of what Robert and Lili have put together and perfected.
  
  

Thank you to Espressino Travel for letting me share some of the photos they took during our adventure.

Last, but not least, thank you Bekka, Heather and Steph for your years of friendship and, once again, being the perfect adventure partners. Until next time…

A few more shots from Puglia…

The Amalfi Coast has many unique characteristics that are simply jaw dropping. It’s truly a spectacular piece of this world. One of those characteristics is how many of the villas, homes, hotels and even churches are built directly into the cliffside. It’s a fascinating and perplexing site to see them just suspended over the Tyrrhenian Sea. And, many of them have been there for hundreds of years.

For Villa La Madonnina, that type of architecture was the only option. There were some amazing roots already laid, but for it to truly become a home, the original owner and builder had to build the villa into the rocky cliffside. It was pure genius to leave  the rock he built into exposed so that it lines the interior of the villa. It’s one of many spectacular features of the villa. And each time you pass through, you are reminded of exactly where you are and how lucky you are to enjoy such a special space.

I have previously traveled internationally with friends, but there has never been more than two of us. This time was different. A group of some of my best friends, of fifteen plus years, and I traveled to Italy. Our two-week Italian extravaganza ended on the Amalfi Coast and, knowing how beautiful this place is, I wanted it to be special for my friends who were visiting for the first time. A true villa was in order.

If you’ve followed this space for long, you know that I am meticulous in my research for lodging. I was extremely meticulous in finding this one. I needed something that ticked all the Amalfi Coast boxes: great view, pool, full kitchen, enough space to comfortably settle in, and removed from the heavy crowds of Positano. Villa La Madonnina checked all those boxes and then some.

Location

Villa La Madonnina is located in charming Furore. To be exact, and you need to know this when using transportation services, it’s in lower Furore. And this will perplex locals who know the area because it’s barely noticeable, like a secret hideaway, until it’s pointed out.

The villa is tucked below the road and into a seaside cliff where it ribbons from the main road all the way down to the water. If you passed by it on the street, you would hardly notice it was there. But, if you know where you are going, the gates open for you on the street, you park in the car park above and you walk down to the first of multiple levels of the villa. 

The Inside Scoop

The first level has one of the two verandahs overlooking the sea. The verandah has both covered and open areas and below the covered area is where you will find a dining table and two perfectly placed hammocks.

The entire verandah has sweeping views of the sea. This is also the main entrance to the interior of the villa.

Upon entering the villa, you descend another set of stairs. This level has an open area with a cozy sitting nook, a round table and a large dining area.

There is a separate room, that can be entered from the main hallway or the nook area, where you will find large, comfortable couches and a television.

From the large open area, a long hallway lined with the exposed cliffside into which the villa is built leads you to each of the three bedrooms. The hallway is stunning and an absolute dream to walk through.

There are two bedrooms with full beds and one bedroom with two twin beds. All the bedrooms are very large, have full ensuite bathrooms, plenty of space to put your things away and a window facing the sea.

I slept with my window open each night and was lulled to sleep by the sound of the sea (and sometimes rain). When I woke in the morning, I just laid there so I could listen to it. It was such a peaceful way to start the day.

On the opposite end of the villa, there is a large kitchen and laundry area.

The villa sprawls across almost as much as it does up and down. 

A Ribbon to the Sea

Let’s talk about the outside of the villa, because this is truly the star of the show. On the main level, you access the second verandah. There, you will find covered and open areas with multiple tables for dining (we spent every night at one of them), separate sitting areas and several sun loungers,  all enveloped in lush gardens, plants and flowers.

Adjacent to this area is a large swimming pool.

From there, stairs lead you past iconic Amalfi Coast lemon trees and down to the sea. When you reach the sea, there is a multi-level platform  with sun loungers and everything you need to enjoy  a swim in the Tyrrhenian Sea .

To be honest, we could have never left the villa and would have been perfectly happy, but we did embark on several excursions. We loved going into Praiano for its lovely shopping, dining and places to grab a drink. At the bottom of this write-up, I have listed each of our excursions, the company we used and a couple of our favorite stops in Praiano.

A villa rental is the best way to travel with a group. We had room to spread out, but each little nook, sitting, dining or just lounging area encouraged togetherness. Villa La Madonnina was a place that instantly felt like home. We, and by “we” I mean my friend Heather, cooked there multiple times, relaxed with books on the couches and ended every single night sitting on the verandah chatting about our day over a bottle of wine. Whenever we did leave the villa it was always the best feeling to return to it. The comfort, the sounds of nothing but the sea and some of the best views that the Amalfi Coast has to offer.

Book your stay at Villa la Madonnina here.

You can find more photos and videos, via Instagram Stories, from our stay here.

You can find our Amalfi Coast adventures, via Instagram Stories, here.

Plan Your Stay

Praiano

Praiano is just a 10-15 minute walk from the villa and it’s oh so charming and the people are so kind. For me, it was a breath of fresh air from touristy and crowded Positano. Have dinner at Il Pino (please say hi to Simone). They will pick you up from the villa and drop you back off. Right across the street from Il Pino is La Bacheca. Stop in for a little shopping and a limoncello.

Positano

Although crowded, there is great shopping and dining in Positano. Plan at least a half day there. Make it back to the villa for a sundowner on one of the verandahs.

Capri by boat

Two of the more popular Amalfi Coast boating experiences are to visit Capri and to see the Amalfi Coast from the water. I’ve done both and preferred the trip to Capri. I’ve used Grassi Junior both times and they are great! You can choose a half or full day excursion, with captain. Or, if you are feeling adventurous, hire your own boat. 

Wine Tasting

We travelled into the mountains to Tramonti with wine experts from Swirl the Glass and enjoyed a full wine tasting experience (including lunch) and loved it! They even picked us up from and dropped us off at the villa.

Ravello Hike

You can hike to Ravello or go by car, but a visit here is an absolute must! High up in the clouds, it has such a different feel than the lower part of the coast, and tons of things to see and places to eat.

Hike from the villa

There are multiple hiking options right from the villa. You can find them all on the villa’s website and in the information book inside the villa.

If you don’t want to worry about organizing any of these, they can be organized for you. Just ask!

• You book directly with the villa owner, so no “middle man” involved
• You will have a local contact that will act as your host the entire time you are there. They can arrange for anything you need 
• Taxis are expensive, there’s no getting around that. Your host can pre-arrange pick ups from the villa
• The bus stop is a five minute walk from the villa. I recommend familiarizing yourself with the bus schedule that is in the villa for your convenience
• Driving the Amalfi Coast takes serious skills. But, people do it. If you choose too, there is parking at the villa.
• You can have the villa pre-stocked with whatever you want
• A couple of nearby restaurants will pick you up and drop you back off. You can pre-arrange this with your host
• The owner is incredibly responsive, oh so kind and wants to ensure you enjoy the villa that is so special to him. 
• Praiano is a is a ten minute walk away and Positano is just a 20 minute car ride away. There are frequent shuttles to and from Positano
• House keeping is provided. You can also arrange for a chef, car service, taxi boat pick up…anything you may need

While planning our trip to the Amalfi Coast, one thing we heard often is that the best way to see the Amalfi Coast is from the water.

After considering the various options to see the coast by boat, we decided on a private tour on a smaller boat. We also did a private boat tour in Thailand and really enjoyed it, so thought we would try it out here. We contacted a handful of companies and learned that most offered similar rates and only varied when it came to the type of boat you wanted. We chose a company called Grassi Jr., which was also recommended to us by our hotel.

Can’t be stopped by the Amalfi Coast chop!

The weather was not great during the majority of our stay in Positano and we woke up to cloudy skies on the morning we were scheduled to go out on the boat. As I was checking my email, I saw that the trip was cancelled. Then it was back on again. Then cancelled. Then on again. Finally, they requested we walk down to the beach to chat with them about our options. After speaking with them about the weather and the outlook for the next couple of days, we decided to go out despite the cloudy skies and that we would turn back around if it started raining.  Fair enough!

The water was CHOPPY. A crew of five helped get the boat close enough to the pier to pick us up and get us onto the boat between sets of waves. Once we were on, we met our captain: Francesco. The first 10 minutes, I felt guilty for having Francesco take us out on this less than ideal day, but I quickly realized that it was choppy for us because we didn’t spend our lives on the water. It was just another day at sea for Francesco.

We cruised down the coast slowly, hugging the shoreline the majority of the time. In addition to proving to be a great captain, Francesco also turned out to be a great source of local information. He pointed out all of the sights along the coast, including the lighthouses that were converted into vacation rentals and the celebrity homes. He also told us about the restrictions on the exterior paint colors of the buildings along the Amalfi Coast and the limited options for schools and hospitals in the area. And, it’s true, the Amalfi Coast is spectacular from the water.

Amalfi Coast treats and treasures

Typically, the boat tours all include a stop for a swim at the grottas, but the water was too choppy for most of them. We did get to pull into a grotto called Pandora’s Grotto. It was wild to be inside a grotto and to be able to listen to the water crash against the cave walls and then echo off of them.

You can see a video of Pandora’s Grotto here.

We cruised along the coast and saw the 30 meter (98 feet) high Furore Bridge where each July, athletes and spectators gather for the annual high dive competition.

We saw the town of Amalfi, which is the largest town on the Amalfi Coast.

And, we saw L’uomo e il mare, which is a small waterfall near the town of Minori. On calm days, you can swim in it.

A private lunch on the Amalfi Coast

As we neared the end of the southern portion of the Amalfi Coast, Francesco offered to stop for lunch on the way back. As we slowed and turned towards land, we weren’t pulling up to a town, but to a small building surrounded by massive limestone cliffs.

We stopped and anchored right at the entrance of the cove and a gentleman on a rubber dingy came to pick us up.

Again, we waited for sets of waves to pass, which the two watermen had mastered, and then the three of us leaped into the dingy. The dingy took us to a small jetty where we repeated the process again.

When we arrived at the restaurant we were the only ones there. It was awesome. We had a feeling that the restaurant was so empty because of the weather, and it was, but primarily because Ristorante Bar Da Teresa was only reachable via water and not many boats were out that day.

We had a fantastic meal and thoroughly enjoyed our very hospitable and funny server. We had a delicious seafood platter, some pasta and wine (of course).

We asked for some espresso at the end of our meal and with our espresso came some homemade limoncello. It was all such a memorable experience.

To get back to the boat, we stood at the edge of the jetty as the waves crashed over it and waited for Francesco and the other waterman to coordinate getting the dingy to the jetty and then their signal for us to come down the jetty and then jump into the dingy. It was a bit of an adventure, but we were very safe with those two experts.

You can see a video of the sets coming into the jetty here.

No regrets

As we slowly cruised back up the coast, Francesco offered us two Peronis, which we gladly took him up on.

As we pulled back into Positano, Francesco took some photos of us with that iconic Positano background.

We pulled up to the pier and, again, had to time the sets before being able to leap off the boat.

Check out the water crashing over the pier here.

Despite not having the best weather, we had an amazing time during our cruise along the coast. If you decide to see the Amalfi Coast this way (you should), we highly recommend Grassi Jr. And, ask for Francesco!

At the heel of Italy’s boot lies beautiful beaches, rural vineyards, historic towns, diverse architecture, an art scene that rival’s Florence’s and top notch food and wine. The best part – the bustling crowds of the rest of Italy are not here (yet).

We barely scratched the surface of this off the beaten path gem, but we can tell you this with 100% certainty: the Italian region of Puglia deserves a spot on your list. Here’s why:

 1. Puglia produces more wine than any other region in Italy, with the most popular grapes being Negroamaro and Primitivo. Set up a tasting tour with Path Tours and ride through the countryside in a 1968 Fiat. Try one of the Pope’s favorite wines: Five Roses rosé from Leone de Castris.

2. The town of Lecce, with it’s offerings of history, art, culture and great food is often referred to as the “Florence of the south”. We found it to be comparable if not better. And, there are fewer visitors that you have to share with.

3. Although the sites and streets lack major crowds during the day, Lecce’s main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo, buzzes with energy in the evenings. Locals and visitors relax along the ruins of the piazza with a beer or glass of wine before going out (or home) for dinner.

4. The people are especially kind. On one afternoon, I sat on a bench outside of a shop to reapply a Band Aid to my abused heel. The shop owner came out, gestured for me to wait, disappeared and then returned with a fresh stem of aloe.

5. About a 40 minute drive from metropolitan Lecce is the charming beach town of Otranto. Otranto, Italy’s most eastern town, frames the crystal clear Adriatic sea with it’s beautiful white buildings. We found a day trip to be perfect for some strolling and a delicious, fresh seafood lunch.

6. Also not far from Lecce’s city center is the Grotta Della Poesia (Grotto of Poetry). Located within the rich archeological site of Rocca Vecchia, this grotto is considered to be one of the most beautiful swimming holes in the world.

7. Bari, the largest city in the Puglia region and the region’s capital city, also has a charming old town.

8. Bari knows how to throw a party! The Festa Di San Nicola takes place during the first ten days of May, with the final three days being the most eventful and most crowded. This festival celebrates Bari’s Patron Saint, Saint Nicholas, with the final day ending in a large mass at the cathedral and a really impressive fireworks show!

9. Just south of Bari is another charming seaside town called Polignano a Mare. It’s most well known for it’s cave restaurant Ristorante Grotta Palazzese. You can read about our experience at this restaurant here.

10. But, we think Polignano a Mare has even more to offer like it’s quaint squares, stunning beach and beautiful sea cliffs.

Where To Stay

In Bari, check out the cozy B&B Zupetta 16. The hosts are great and the breakfast is fantastic!

In Lecce, we highly recommend the beautiful and historic Mantatelure.

Is Puglia on your list, yet?

 

The first stories I heard about Florence were from my grandparents who had two, very different memories of this historic city. My granny, the museum addict, remembers seeing the David for the first time and all of the beautiful art the city holds and the romance of being able to see it in person. My grandfather remembers not being able to find parking and driving around in chaotic circles, while trying to avoid getting a ticket, so that my granny could swoon over those beautiful pieces.

Now that I’ve finally been, I think about their two differing memories and I can tell you that they both perfectly sum up Florence: It is a bustling city somewhat restricted in flow by its historic small streets, yet it is so beautifully romantic and particularly so for anyone who has even the slightest interest in art.

We spent three days right in the city center  and have a little bit of advice for anyone visiting for the first time.

1. Don't Drive

“Don’t drive.” My Papa’s exact words when I told him we were going to Florence. This was great advice! Florence’s city center is small and walkable. There may be one or two sites that aren’t walkable, but there are plenty of cabs that can get you to them. Driving and parking in Florence is more trouble than it’s worth. Save your sanity.

2. Go During the Shoulder Months

Florence is hot and crowded during the summer months. If you can, try to go during May or September. You’ll have lovely weather, fewer crowds and better hotel rates.

Small crowds at the Duomo in May

3. Get the Firenze Card

If you are going to be in Florence for at least a few days, and plan on visiting a lot of the museums and sites, you need the Firenze Card. Although it doesn’t cover the Duomo, it covers other major sites like Academia and the Uffizi. The card costs 72 Euros ($79) and is valid for 72 hours from when you enter your first museum. Another great benefit is that you have priority access to each site, which is such a time (and feet) saver!

4. Make Timed Entry Reservations

If you aren’t going to purchase the Firenze Card, book timed entry tickets for Academia and the Uffizi. It will cost an extra 4 Euros for each ticket, but is well worth it. For one, you are guaranteed to get in and, for two, you won’t have to wait in line. We suggest reserving these tickets in advance. You can reserve them on each of their websites or here.

Botticelli’s Primavera at the Uffizi

5. Bring Comfortable Walking Shoes

Between the cobble stone streets and marble museum floors, your feet (and back) can take a beating on a busy day of sightseeing. Invest in a pair of good walking shoes. I am not talking about white sneakers that you often see paired with khaki shorts and a fanny pack. Please don’t. Comfortable shoes have really improved! Borne makes some (sometimes) stylish comfy shoes. But also some not so stylish ones. Do a little research; you may be surprised at what you find!

Worn out tourists on the Uffizi rooftop

6. Check Hours of Operation

A lot of museums are closed on Mondays. Be sure to check the hours of the museums you want to visit so you can plan around their closings. And, it’s not just museums. Many restaurants are closed as well. I am not saying that the city completely shuts down; there are tons of other things to do and places to eat. Just be prepared for a quieter Monday.

7. Know the Dress Code

Do as I say and not as I do? I made a pretty rookie mistake by not doing this. I assumed that dress codes were similar to cathedrals in other cities we had visited and had covered my shoulders and not my knees. I spent 20 minutes standing in line for the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore only to be turned away at the entrance. The family behind me in tank tops and jean shorts were able to enter, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

I wasn’t allowed to enter a cathedral because of this outfit

8. Hire a Tour Guide

If you are really interested in a site, this is well worth it! And, it’s often not that expensive. The tour guides outside of the Duomo were charging 20 Euros for a private tour. We have done this on several occasions and have always been glad that we did. For one, you skip the line. We did this at the Vatican many years ago and walked right by hundreds of people. For two, it’s an incredibly efficient way to see a museum, landmark or other important site. You won’t have to figure out where things are, play the buttons on your audio tour, read maps or try to figure out which room the exhibit you want to see was moved. We hired a guide in Pompeii, which is massive, and saw and learned plenty within 2 hours. For three, you will get so much more out of it. You can ask questions, request to see certain areas/pieces and you will always get more information than you would from a book or audio tour. Oh, and if you aren’t dressed appropriately, they will often have something for you to cover up with.

9. Shop for Leather

Florence is overflowing with beautiful leather products. You will find better bargains in the markets (watch out for fakes!), but you will find higher quality leather in the many boutiques.

10. Sunset Picnic at Piazzale Michelangelo

Pick up a bottle of chianti, prosciutto and some  pecorino from a local shop and head over to Piazzale Michelangelo for a sunset picnic. Here, you’ll find some of the best views of the city and the Arno valley. If you’re into photography, this is a great photo spot. Just get there early before all of the good spots are taken. Because it is outside the city center, this is one of the few places to which you may have to take a cab or bus, but it is so worth it!

11. Eat Gelato

I mean obviously, right? But here’s the thing: not all gelato is created equal and there are gelato shops everywhere! Here are a couple of tips on how to find the real deal:

• Look at the colors. The good stuff has natural color tones and not bright, florescent tones.
• If it’s piled high in display cases, that likely means it is filled with air and other chemicals. Real gelato is displayed simply and is sometimes not displayed at all, but in covered tins.

12. Get Lost

Seriously. But, in a responsible and safe way. Even the most devoted of art and history fans need a break. Get lost in Florence’s charming side streets. If you enjoy photography, these side streets are a great place for street photography. And, you will be amazed at the sculptures and art that line Florence’s streets and buildings.

Florence Street Scenes

13. Download a Walking Tour

Rick Steves has walking tours for many major European cities, including Florence. You can find the app in the app store, download the tours you are interested in and you’re set! We find this is a great way to familiarize ourselves with a city while learning a lot about it.

14. Research Restaurants in Advance

We did not do this and ended up struggling to find descent places to eat. Not that there aren’t plenty of places to have a great meal. There are! There are also a lot of not so great, tourist trap places that can make finding great food more difficult. So, by doing a little bit of googling and Yelp perusing, you’ll be able to avoid the tourist traps and come up with some delicious finds. If you are there during busy periods, making reservations a few days ahead is recommended. The good restaurants, even some of the larger ones, fill up quickly.

Winter Garden at the St. Regis is phenomenal

15. Take a Day Trip

There are some great trips, outside of the city, that can be conquered in a day! You can rent a car just for the day, take the bus or, you can join a tour and not have to worry about driving and finding your way around. Here are just a few things you can do:

• Wine Tasting- First, let me say that, if you are interested in wine and/or beautiful rolling hills and you have the time, spend a few days in the Tuscan countryside. It’s wonderful! If not, take a day trip to visit some wineries and enjoy the scenery. We toured with Azzurra Rosidini, with Viaggi d’Ambra and she was fantastic!

• Visit Siena! It is a fantastic medieval town and a favorite among many. It’s about an hour and fifteen minutes by bus from Florence to Siena.

• Go shopping! If you’re into luxury brands like Prada, Fendi and Valentino, you are in for a treat! There is a luxury outlet mall called…wait for it…”The Mall“. It’s about a 40 minute drive from Florence. You can take the city bus to get there or, The Mall can arrange a shuttle to pick you up. Be sure to take your passport so you can collect your tax refund while there.

There is a reason the Reader’s of Condé Nast Traveler  named Florence as the best city in the world in 2015. It is a wonderful city with so much to offer: art, history, music, delicious food, beautiful wines and warm people. Florence is a city that should be on everyone’s “list”.

You can view more photos of Florence here.

 

 

The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese  

You may have seen the photos floating around the internet. Images of a two tiered restaurant with white table cloth clad tables, wood floors and simple lighting. All of this tucked into a cave that dangles over a bright blue sea. These images have been shared by just about every popular travel publication and the accompanying caption reads “Is this the most romantic restaurant in the world?” We had a chance to dine at The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese and here is what we experienced:

[dropcap]Location:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is one of two restaurants inside the boutique hotel Grotta Palazzese which is located in the absolutely charming seaside town of Polignano a Mare in the Southern Italy region of Puglia. Polignano a Mare is about a 45 minute drive from the main town of Bari. You can also get there by train/shuttle from Bari and Brindisi.

Tip: You enter through the hotel, which can be tricky to find. Once you park, you will see directional signs on the sides of buildings that take you to the hotel.

[dropcap]When to go: [/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese  is open from Easter to October. Their website says that they are open from 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. We went at 12:30 p.m. and it was clear that we were their first seating. Literally the first people to walk through the door. They give you a 90 minute window to wine and dine. For two people, that was plenty.

Fortunately, our early arrival meant that we could choose any table we wanted. We chose one right by the edge. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and we were able to soak in the views of the Adriatic Sea and the sounds of the water gently lapping up against the cave.

Tip: When deciding what time you want to dine, think about what you’re looking for. The cave is nicely lit during the day and you can see out over the Adriatic. In the evenings, the cave is dimly lit. You won’t be able to see as much, but I am sure it is equally as beautiful.

Tip: Select an earlier reservation for either lunch or dinner, so you have a better chance at selecting the table you want. Arrive 15 minutes before your reservation time.

[dropcap]What to Wear:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is considered “upscale”. Here is the dress code info they provided in our email correspondence:

I wore a nice flowy Maxi dress and my husband wore casual slacks and a polo, both of which were  perfectly acceptable.

Tip: We were there in May. Being in a cave and right on the water it was just a little bit chilly, so bring a light sweater.

[dropcap]The Food:[/dropcap]The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese is a Mediterranean/Italian/seafood restaurant. There are two ways you can order: You can order a minimum of three items from the à la carte menu or, you can order a four or six course meal from the pre-fix menu. If you choose the latter, the entire table must order that way. Here are both menus:

Tasting menu in English 2016

Menu carta in English 2016

They make it clear that you must order as explained above. However, we saw several people just order one item from the à la carte menu.

Fortunately, I did a bit of research before our experience here, so I had an idea of what we were going into. I saw quite a few reviews that stated the food was “bad” or even “horrible”. I didn’t think it was bad at all. However, I didn’t think it was great nor did it justify the price. When we started the meal we both commented “Oh, it’s good.” With a head tilt and that high pitch voice that comes with surprise that it wasn’t terrible.

The wine list is pretty good and they also had a couple of interesting bottled beers to choose from.

[dropcap]The Service:[/dropcap]Again, I am glad that I did some research ahead of time. Along with the chatter about the food, there were quite a lot of complaints about the service. The most common description I read was that the servers were rude. I didn’t feel like they were rude, but they were cold and curt. No smiles, no pleasantries, just the bare minimum of seating you, taking your order and bringing it to you. Not at all what you would expect from the caliber of restaurant that The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese portrays itself to be.

Tip: Don’t take the curtness personally.

[dropcap]Cost:[/dropcap]Pricey! I am all for paying a little extra for unique, enjoyable experiences (especially when it comes to food and wine), but it has to be worth it. If we would have walked away from pleasant, welcoming service and great food, it wouldn’t have seemed so pricey. With that setting, we probably would have thought it was a steal!

The four course menu starts at 100 Euros ($110) p/p.

The six course menu starts at 120 Euros ($133) p/p and there is another for 150 Euros ($160) p/p.

The à la carte menu has items that range from 32 Euros ($35) to 58 Euros ($64). So, having to order a minimum of three items, you are no better off.

My husband had a beer and I had a glass of rosé. I can’t remember the exact pricing, but it was much higher than average. Especially for that area.

[dropcap]The Cave:[/dropcap]The cave is beautiful! As mentioned above, the décor is very simple, which allows the historic grotta be the star of the show. It is dimly lit by lamps and the rest is filled by natural light. There are two levels for seating. The much larger bottom floor is where you enter and is the main floor of the cave.

What you can’t see in a lot of the photographs of the cave you might find online is that the back of the cave opens up to a deeper, water filled cave.

The upstairs has a much smaller seating area and a small bar. It really is lovely and incredibly unique. It has quite the history too, as it has been used for banquets since as early as the 1700’s.

[dropcap]Is this the most romantic restaurant in the world?[/dropcap]So, back to that unanswered question that seems to accompany every photo of this restaurant. For me, there are too many key elements missing for The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese to be able to hold such a grand recognition. This rings especially true being that it is located in a country that oozes romance and prides itself on its unforgettable cuisine. It is absolutely a beautiful and unique setting, but it ends there. On this trip alone, we had several dining experiences that were far more romantic, like at Belvedere in Ravello or Michelin-starred La Sponda in Positano. Neither are set in a cave, but they certainly aren’t lacking in views, food, ambiance and service. And, at both, I thought to myself “this is so romantic”.

Now, I am not trying to be a “Debbie Downer”. I want you to be prepared. Here’s why: if this is something you are remotely interested in seeing. GO. It is lovely. Just go with your expectations in check. If you go in knowing what you’ll get, you will be able to enjoy the uniqueness of the setting. And, the town of Polignano a Mare is definitely worth a visit.

A few bits of additional info:

• Reservations – I found The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese to be very responsive and easy to communicate with via email. They do require a credit card to hold your reservation.
• Parking – The hotel does not have its own parking. They will send you a map to show you where the nearest paid parking lot. We were able to find parking on the street, though it was challenging to interpret the various parking signs (and the translation that Google Translate provided was indicative of the limits of that technology at this time). We found a car leaving a space and hoped for the best.
• Photographs – The staff at The Summer Cave at Grotta Palazzese are fine with you walking around to take photographs. I found that the best vantage point, to take a photo of the entire grotto, was from the tiny window in the ladies room.
• Leave yourself a couple of hours to explore Polignano a Mare. Maybe more if you want to relax on the beach.

 

 

 

Awww….Italy. What can I say? It’s just perfect. This trip was 9 years to the month from our first trip to Italy (and my second time to Europe). Not only did it give me so many more reasons to love Italy, but it gave me lots of reminders of why I fell in love with it in the first place.

We booked this trip a year in advance. We had always talked about returning to Italy, but never made any real plans to do so. And then, as if sent from the international business class heavens, British Airways had an irresistible Club World sale. So that, paired with a few glasses of wine, led to the booking of two round trip tickets to Ital…nope, Zurich. The sale was to Zurich and that was close enough to Italy.

As the Amalfi coast was a major influencer in this trip, we planned everything around going there. We settled on those days, added Florence and Tuscany, and still had a few days left. I did a little research, specifically on off-the-beaten path places in Italy, and there was one region that came up quite often: Puglia. Just wait until I tell you about amazing Puglia.

                                                                             Positano 

                                                                    Otranto in the Puglia region

Maybe it was because this was our second time to the country, but I seemed to be hyperaware of and in tune with everything. Hopefully, these observations will assist you in planning your trip to Italy. Once you’ve gone, it’s easy to see why people keep returning to Italy. It’s a pretty special place. Here’s why:

The people

Italians are warm. When an Italian asked me how I was enjoying Italy, I commented how much I enjoyed the people.  Her response was “yes, we are a sunny people.” That pretty much sums it up!

Italians really do talk with their hands. A lot. It’s great.

Italians really do say “Mama Mia!” It’s also great.

Italian cities, like most cities in Europe, come alive at night. People dine out and they gather in the main squares, or piazzas as they’re called in Italy, and lounge with a bottle of wine. It’s beautiful. I highly recommend you take part in it.

                                                                      Evenings in a Piazza

Italians are very conversational. Talk to them. It will be pleasant and often funny and you will learn so much!

The food and wine (Oh. My. Goodness.)

The food is so fresh. All of it. In fact, that is how we Americans justify (to ourselves) how Italians can eat all of that goodness and not be 1200 lbs. That goodness just doesn’t have the preservatives.

                                                                           Deliciousness!

The local cuisine is heavily influenced by what grows in the area. Meals are prepared based on locally available sources and are very specific to each region. Even down to the type of pasta used. Naturally, areas near the sea use a lot of seafood and areas farther away use a lot of meat.

Reservations for dinner are always a good idea. Also, keep in mind that many restaurants close after lunch time, for siestas, and don’t open again until the evening.

There is SO MUCH wine. And, so many wine regions. It’s a beautiful thing. From the Primitivos grown in the south, to the Chianti Classicos and Brunellos in the middle, to the beautiful, dry whites from Piedmont in the north. It was hard to find a bad wine.

                                               Top: Primitivo in Pulia Bottom: Chianti Classico in Chianti

The sights

I remember our first trip to Italy, and Rome in particular, and being amazed at how ruins are around every corner. Everywhere. Unfortunately, they have also been graffitied. Nonetheless, it is an amazing thing to walk through so much history no matter what direction you are heading.

 

Italian towns are literally built on top of each other. There are ruins on top of ruins. My favorite sight in Rome is the Basilica San Clemente, which is a 12^th century church, built on top of a 4^th century church, built on top of a pagan temple. In Lecce, the main square is discretely dominated by excavated ruins. Oh, and this is the spot where the locals gather to socialize.

                                                                     Ruins in a Piazza

I can’t recall any other place I have been where simply turning a corner can force a “wow” right out of me. It was the Pantheon in Rome, the Duomo in Florence and the Duomo in Siena that got me. You really don’t see them as you approach them (maybe because you’re buried in turn-by-turn directions), but after you make that final turn and your eyes see them, they will take your breath away. And the “wow” that leaves your mouth is completely involuntary.

                                                                     The Pantheon (from 2007)

                                                                The spectacular Duomo in Florence

                                                                        Siena’s Duomo

Some of the most important arts, ruins, history, cathedrals and architecture is in Italy and it is abundant. Take the time to see these things. I recommend making sure that you follow any dress codes and purchasing tickets in advance. Many museums and sites now have timed entries to reduce crowds. If you plan on seeing many sights in one city, you may want to purchase some sort of city pass that will grant entry to many of these places and will usually offer some other benefits, such as a designated entry that often has a line of people much shorter than the general admission entry. You can find information on all of these by visiting that sight’s website or speaking with your hotel’s concierge. Particularly during busy season when getting a reservation for a museum or cathedral at your preferred time may be more challenging, you will be well served to figure out the sites you want to visit and make reservations well in advance and coordinate visiting sites that are near each other.

                                                  Botticelli’s Primavera and Michelangelo’s David

The diversity of the regions

We have an agreement that we will see as many countries as possible even though we are tempted to just return to most of them. Italy will be an exception, in large part because of its diversity. In the far south, in the heel of the boot, is the Puglia region with whitewashed buildings and a crystal clear blue sea. The Amalfi coast is a lush, mountainous tropical paradise. And then there are the cities of Rome, Florence and Milan. The rolling hillsides of Tuscany and Umbria and the many lakes and mountains of the north. We will go back because there is still so much to see.

The Italian rail system, Trenitalia, is excellent and makes it very easy to get around.

                                                                     The high speed train

When to go

We went in May. It was an excellent time to go as the crowds were minimal. We hardly had any lines (except for the Duomo in Florence), we could take tons of photos without having someone walk right in front of us and we could set the timer on the camera (vintage selfie) without worrying someone snagging it. Dinner and museum reservations were no problem. The only problem we had was that the weather wasn’t so great. Though, from what we heard from the locals, the weather we experienced was an anomaly.

                                                                     The place to ourselves!

                                                                        Positano Rain

July and August are the busiest, warmest and priciest months. Keep in mind that most Europeans travel for the month, yep the MONTH, of August. Because Italy is so diverse, there are some seasons that are great for some areas and not so great for others. Do your research. Naturally, the beach areas are best in the spring/summer. If you want to truffle hunt, that is best done in the fall. It really depends on what you’re expectations are of this beautiful country.

I hope this gives you a solid overview and helps you in planning your trip. In my opinion, Italy is a perfect compilation of everything you would want on vacation. And, travelling within the country is easy.  Lastly, if you are ready to take your first trip to Europe and haven’t decided on a country, I think Italy is a perfect place for Euro virgins.